Is it day 13 or not?

I am confused, I arrived on January 1 so today being the 13th should be day 13. I am feeling quite ungrounded. However that appears, the journey continues. I am having a respite from travelling at the moment, visiting some friends of my folks Jean and Rudy DeVries just south of Mangawhai Village. Oh and so you get into the experience of this adventure, wh is pronounced f. Got that? The accent of people can be faint or thick and combined with the Maori names for places sometimes it seems impossible (for me) to understand where or what.
After checking out the Hundertwasser toilets yesterday which by the way are quite entertaining, just a regular toilet with lotsa embellishment. Living roof and a tree growing up through it. With a little shove the van restarted and I drove on to the Kawiti caves. Run by a Maori family , they have a Marea onsite and a cattle farm. The limestone cave was discovered 300 years ago by ancestors of these folks when they smelled smoke, investigated and found a runaway woman living inside. The cave itself is very entrancing with large stalactites and stalagmites galore. A wooden walkway suspended above the stream wends its way through and out the back where a trail leads over the hill and back down through limestone boulders and native bush. No photos inside unfortunately. The glow worms are very cool shining off the ceiling, it is their excrement on tubes hanging down that glows as bait for the mosquitoes and flies they eat.
Onto Whangarei and the falls, a nice walk along the stream and some time to think. Reflection happens when I am driving and stuff comes up I think I want to say, then when I sit to write it is just the travelogue that appears. Thinking about the what if... I had come 20 years ago, I realize that was in the middle of being Dad, there is no way I would have/could have walked away from my children or could afford to bring them here! I needed to say that. Those were wonderful times in spite of all my failings I wouldn't trade that time for anything. Wow i am teary eyed, I miss my children, and love them deeply, I don't know if you all know how important you are to me Matthew, Isaac, Monica, Carla and James. Thank you Annie for your trust and faith in my parenting, I learned so much.
Anti climax time eh? I decided I wanted to take a secondary road south and then head towards Brynderwyn. As I was driving and had no co-pilot to read the map I ended up in Maungatapere, where I saw some amazing stone fencing. Then I tried again after a quick look at the map and this time found myself in Maungakaramea... the folks there had little sympathy since the NZ way is to drive as fast as possible in the most direct way to get anywhere. Back to the #1 I went and eventually (did I tell you my phone is on the fritz? 6 calls later I was on a payphone) arrived here. Now I am off to see the bird sanctuary and dunes, do some walkabout.

Day 12

How frustrating! I spent a good hour late last night, not online writing my thoughts and experiences bringing it all up to date. Then this morning when I showed up here at the library in Kawakawa, I went online..poof all gone. If there is one thing I thought I had learned it was Assume nothing! Especially with this medium. Anyway there I was in the library Dagraville skyping with Elke (how nice it is to connect) trying hard not to disturb the woman behind me. When she got up to go I mentioned it and we went into a 20 min conversation. She was interested to know what I thought about her country, a student attending University in Hamilton, home for the holidays (isn't that a movie?). I described some experiences then showed her pictures... She recognized the spot I spent the night, her partners family are the folks in the corrugated iron cabins above the beach, oh right I hadn't got there yet. So I drive down this road along a river and come to the end. sorta. Someone in a bigger camper parked, not too friendly he was and beyond I can see an atv, 4wd and a collection of corrugated iron "buildings" definitely a camp of sorts, these folks have been coming here for years. Turns out someone actually lives there! One of my new acquaintance's relatives. Across the river another building with a flag on a pole, that's the picture she recognized. Anyway there was another road going up onto the hill behind, the gate was open and I thought why not? Drove past a fenced area with a picnic table, along a track with gates looking very sheep or cattle country. Around another corner and voila out onto a beautiful field overlooking the western vista, surf pounding below and two fishermen. At the far edge of the field was a van, a small trailer, door wide open and piles of stuff strewn around; mattresses, surf boards, a guitar, bags of unknowns, camping gear and no one to be seen. I wandered down the cliff stepping over the electric fence and slowly approached the first fisherman. he didn't appear glad to see me. He indicated his understanding was the land was private and I might get locked in. At that point his rod fell over and he began hauling in a fish whose name I didn't quite catch, his partner also brought one in and they allowed I might have brought them good luck. Back to fishing. I returned to the van, where now a woman and child had appeared. She said they were leaving and it wouldn't be appropriate for me to be there if they were not. Parked down below,went for an explore walking along the river to the mouth and the beach. Then back to eat the rest of my dinner and have a beer. Another van arrives, they say hello (!) and explore briefly returning to tell me they are parking up above, I join them due to some understanding of Neville's that the trust or something like that allows us to be there. As darkness falls, Ferg shows up and after some convincing by Neville backs off from booting us out since he is leaving in the morning and we will too. I awake to the sound of gentle rain in the night, followed closely by a lashing downpour, gale force winds and the van rocking violently. Luckily I parked below the crest of the hill. Finally quit around 6, so I did my breakfast, some writing and prepared to leave. The starter wheezes again and again bringing Neville out to investigate from his tiny tent with his Swiss friend Andrea on his heels. Eventually with their help rocking back and forth it catches and I AM OUTA THERE. Next stop the really big Kauri trees, the biggest and the widest. They call one of them Father of the Forest but to me they were both big mother trees, huge. Taking a picture just doesn't come close to portraying how massive they are. Went for a nice walk through the woods to see them and took lots of pictures. Onward, stopping to look at the carved bowls of 4500 year old Kauri, very nice, and dear. Some gum there as well, but nothing called my name.
Dagraville, the river is brown, turbid and unappealing. The town itself seems friendly, old buildings and a sense of heritage, cashing in on the tourists as much as is possible. I spent $20 doing the internet thing before figuring out I could do the library for free... wandered around in between attempting to get grounded and determine what my next step might be. Had a moment of upset when the phone mic wouldn't work, the payphone wouldn't accept coins or my credit card. I bought some time and made the call. Will visit Jean DeVries near Wellsford tonight. I was hungry so went for Chinese food... it was the worst I have ever experienced, it tasted UNchinese, tough and bland, I felt sorry for these folks, trying so hard. Weird it was.
Decided to work myself towards Kawakawa to see the toilets. Drove north from Tangowahine through some beautiful country following a river and turning east I came upon the mineral springs I had been reading about in my Lonely Planet Guidebook. I had not been able to locate them on the map, but here I was. $13 to visit the pools and spend the night, what a deal.

Day 11 already

The internet has been scarce and pricey lately so I am limiting my writing to public libraries! What a gift they are, I spent $20 uploading photos and checking mail earlier, had some food, messed with my inconsistent starter and located the library. Where have I been? On some amazing beaches let me tell you. The drive up the peninsula was easy, I am getting more comfortable with this RH driving although when the speedometer started dinging I kinda wondered "what next?" Apparently the van does not like to exceed 110 km an hour. Those one lane bridges are cute with the arrows on a sign indicating who has the right of way. The Gum diggers and the Giant Kauri displays did not call me, I chose instead to investigate Rarawa Beach, incredible white sand, I had to go back for my sunglasses. And went for my first swim, water refreshing not warm and not cold either. Drive on! Stopping to take pictures of the worlds purest silica sand dunes and ever onward toward the site of my pilgrimage Cape Reinga. And what an experience arriving there! I was unprepared for how I felt, awed and humbled by the majesty of ocean and land coming together. Far out I could see surf breaking as if the land, a reef perhaps, reaches miles out toward the north. Surf, beaches, headlands and way off in the distance the Three Kings. I walked around for a while and let go an offering that Marilyn had entrusted with me. Took way too many pictures and exposed my flesh to the sun, I thought I had it covered with sunscreen... I visited Taputaputa Bay in concert with 3 bus loads of folks. That could have been me, I am so glad I have the van. Walked around the corner back towards Cape Reinga but was stopped by the sea and an impassable headland. However it is possible to walk there, a trail connects. Actually this place NZ is covered with great "tracks" and plenty of "reserves"aka park. The historical signifigance of all these places is well documented adding a wonderful perspective to my adventure. Hmm, somehow that seems grammatically challenged. Anyway I chose to spend the night at Spirits Bay, parked among the other tourists all at a respectable distance. A fellow waves to me, first friendly greeting since Albany. Phil is from the UK living in Wellington and loving the place. He and Andrea found a wee hedgehog in the surf the day before and were feeding it shells full of milk. Walked the beach, collected a shell or two and marvelled at this pristine length of delicious sand stretching off to the east with nary a soul to be seen. Big surf, I tried a little body surfing and was speedily deposited on the beach! What a rush! Later as the sun set the young surfers emerged wandering way down the beach where apparently the best waves were. A few mosquitoes accompanied me to bed after a non cooked dinner. I neglected to get myself a stove, total fire ban here due to lack of rain. Eating lots of avocadoes.
Next morning the rowdies in the next site departed and I managed to get in another swim before I too left. After getting my hotwater (lemon,cayenne and ginger) I turned west to Hukatere driving through the Aupouri forest mostly Pine and some Gum (Eucalyptus) The ground covered in what looks like deep duff from the pine needles. 90 mile beach had people coming and going, some even stuck in the sand, all part of their adventure. Normally I would be tempting fate as well but it was somewhat foggy and besides what is there to do there? Drive? Fish? and surf I guess. Those waves looked a little bit challenging to me. How about 5 avacadoes for $2? YES!
Off to the museum in Kaitaia, learned about gum digging, local surfers from the 70's and Captain Cook. Lunch was a massive burger, they put soo much stuff in their burgers! Then I drove on a road that had me thinking of Doug and Connie, folks you gotta get down here and drive the Mangamuka Gorge wow, I took some pictures whilst driving normally a no no, little traffic so I went slow. Hairpins that went beyond belief around and around, down and down. The up side was probably just as winding but I was trying to stay on the road. Then up to the Kauri sanctuary 15k's of gravel and not a soul to be seen. The 6th largest Kauri in New Zealand (how about the planet folks). I realized the guide book was speaking about ANOTHER Kauri reserve so did a backtrack and headed across the ferry at Rangiora to Rawene ( now, is that pronounced raw weenie?) wandered the town, took about 15 minutes, bought mussels and fries takeaway. Sat and ate and messed with the phone, took pictures of the Dunes across Hokianga harbour at North head. I spotted a likely camping spot at Waimaku Beach and did spend the night there. The library is closing! I gotta go ! More to follow.

Day7 rolls into 8

Driving, there is something disconcerting about realizing I am on the wrong side of the road as someone approaches me. Augh! Luckily I am choosing to drive narrow windy roads without much traffic. The views are spectacular, I am inclined to stop frequently so not making much progress. Went for a delightful swim this morning, then continued north into the Bay of Islands,past Frenchman's Swamp and on to Russel where I posted a letter. Took a short ferry ride to Opua then got fuel in Paihia. Then visited the Waitangi treaty grounds. Maori canoes were impressive, one holds 160 , 80 paddlers. I visited the building honouring all the Maori signatories ( I think) amazing carvings inside. I was so amazed I didn't take any pictures... Oh well. Onto another gravel road to Haruru falls and then back onto highway to Puketona. Went into Kerikeri and an organic grower there pointed me to another vista filled drive, better than the last, there just are not enough superlatives folks. OMG this place is stunning! However the number of no camping signs is disappointing, I am currently contemplating a side trip up into Doubtless Bay and another night in a campground. Stuff keeps coming up for me, I am alone by choice and examining deeply the choices I made by coming here. 20 years ago I am sure I would have stayed and rode the wave. Things have changed apparently from the limited challenging struggles to prosperity and easy access to just about everything. I am having trouble defining what it is I am trying to describe, Stephen described it as an insularity and ability to deal with whatever comes along. Me I am on the outside looking in. I am a social being and this forced solitude surrounded by folks who barely see me is challenging. In a good way. My ego could use some humility eh? Yes and this is merely the first week ending here folks, who can say where I will be in a month?
Bless you all,
I have huge gratitude for the love and support I am feeling from my friends and family.
checkout the pictures at Picasa

Hanging out in Albany

Whew! Driving on the right side is challenging. A friend of a friend who is now a friend. (yeah that is silly) Fraser and Liz are putting me up with splendid hospitality, driven me all over, showing the sights and helping negotiate the technicalities of vehicle registration, cell phone formatting (yes I have a number... don't call me yet!) and money exchange. The foliage and bird life continues to impress me, walkabout feels somewhat unreal, although a trip to the mall is always a good reality check. Summer time and folks are dressed for it.
Yesterday we took a trip up north to Puhoi, where a very established quaint and rustic pub serves beer outside on fairly gnarly picnic tables. Didn't get into the library , but it is functioning. There are beaches everywhere, this is the place, greater Auckland has many miles of sandy beach and none are crowded. Today the plan is to do a little more driving get some more supplies and then go kayaking on the high tide. Tomorrow I will head north on my own.

day 3

Clear skies last night and then the waning full moon. Great to hear from folks via email and my "landlord"on his phone. I spent too much time arranging things so folks could see my pictures, still working out how to let everyone know about the blog. Steep learning curve.
Woke early and spoke with Elke via Skype very cool.
Walked down past the beach and bridge, around to the camping part of the park and followed the track up to a waterfall,lotsa puddingstone boulders making caves, overhangs and some sweet little pools. Yes I climbed up,stripped down and jumped in, sorry no pictures of that. It was refreshing. Wandered down to ocean, looking at the trees attempting to identify as many as possible. It is so lush, verdant and buccolic.I wonder about the affect all this has on folks, I feel still overwhelmed by the majesty and novelty, flowers everywhere, hydrangeas growing wild and the incredible scents wafting past me, smells so sweet and then acrid and so many faintly familiar. Not to mention fallen fern fronds filling up the underbrush.

Day 2

I slept and hung out had some issues with the electics and the DSL (switches on the wall plugs!) Anyway I will post some pictures now that I am online again. Did I say I hadn't changed any money? Did I realize how far out this place is? I managed to buy some food, starvation diet for a few days, and Monday being a holiday means... no banks. This presents a challenge to obtaining my wheels as does getting back into town. I am trusting the universe to provide the perfect solution. In the meantime I will make contact with the van sellers.
The folks who were staying here on my arrival told me about a hike I might enjoy so after feeding cats I walked down the hill along the beach and up the road beside the river. saw some sheep! and a pleasant stream. What called to me was a hike (they call them tramps here) up the side of the hill/mountain I could see from the house. 2.5 hours and right away I had to scrub my shoes and spray some disinfectant to protect some ancient trees. It was pleasant hiking/tramping through the completely unfamiliar flora, although I did recognize a few houseplants. When I got to the giant tree and sat down I realized I aint 25 anymore and besides when was the last time I hiked uphill? There was an interesting sounding bird flitting around the canopy, which I intend to identify... later. A short extra trail to the top of Goat peak sufficed to satisfy my need to accomplish something, I took some vista pictures and descended rubbery legs and all expressing gratitude all the way. Walked the beach, had some fish and chips and returned to fall deep asleep. When I awoke I discovered the switch turning on the DSL and here I am back in the present moment!