Morning comes with a bit of wind, overcast still. I collect my frozen water containers and my food (except my carrots!!!) and make my departure. cruising down the hill I stop at the grocery to replenish supplies. I know where I am going today, Oriental Parade. It begins the drive around to the beaches and bays of Wellington. It is raining, but I stop anyway to take pictures as I follow the coastline around to the south. Some great possibilities for freedom camping here! The houses along some of this are one deep the cliff right up against the backdoor (if they have one) about halfway the batteries give out in the camera. I continue driving around. This is very cool, I like this place a lot. At the end of the road I find my spot for the night. I follow a road that takes me directly back to my first experience of driving in Wellington, Brooklyn. I continue on towards the ferry terminals. I want to be able to find them with as little trouble as possible in the morning. That done I return to the grocery.
Then I try to find the library. I asked someone who suggested it was, "way over that way, up the hill" These one way streets where left turns when the road veers right are restricted and vice versa are frustrating. I end up driving in circles! Finally I park the van and walk. And walk and walk and walk. Jeez I am not doing much better on foot! I do find it, very close to where I started out. I plug in my battery charger... nothing, try a different plug, try the laptop, yes there is power. Hmmm. Walk back to Dick Smith "your techperts" or whatever. The fellow there informs me I have fried my charger. NZ current is 240v to NA 120v. Yikes! I buy a charger. Walk back to the van to confirm with my 12v adaptor. Yep, fried.
I decide I need a respite. I drive up the hill and into the Botanical Gardens. Either I don't get peoples directions or they don't explain well. Either way I end up driving IN the Botanical gardens and park at the WWF centre in a visitor spot. I wander through, cameraless enjoying the peace of growing plants well cared for. New Zealand Native plants at risk, a fern garden and the Australian garden. Some fairly weird plants too. I enjoyed the signs indicating variety, and history. For comic relief I took the trolley down the hill, then up again. That was worth the $5.
After yesterday my feet get sore fast, so I plug in the charger and start driving. I am trying to get to Maraka Beach. Again the circles. Through tunnels, over viaducts, around mountaintops. Up down and around. Finally I ask a fellow who gives me quite precise instructions, over the viaduct, through the tunnel onto Chaytor Street then up Karoi Rd. Voila! I am through this maze and on my way. I see a wind farm then some signs indicating some displeasure? They say "DO SOMETHING" and pictures reminiscent of the "scream" Yet another winding road. I believe after some reading that my use of the word windy for winding has been incorrect. In any case this road winds around and ends at a beach where the sun was shining and the wind was blowing. I squeeze a couple more pictures out of the batteries. I leave the van running to maximize the charging.
I head back to Brooklyn and Happy Valley to Owhiro Bay, then back around to Scorching Bay turn around taking pictures at all the places I missed. Island Bay, Breaker Bay, Mahanga Bay. I see kite surfers in Lyall Bay in front of the airport, snap shots of some interesting houses. Now I am hungry, tired of cheese, salami and avocado sandwiches. Back to Brooklyn where the Golden Lotus grabs my eye. Chinese sounds good. Inside I discover it is now an Ethiopian menu. For $18 I get a wonderful meal and no tipping here, they get insulted! While I wait for the food I finally figure out the texting on this phone. The mode of finishing my words was really challenging me.
Drive back to Te Kopahou Reserve, walk on the beach for 20 min. and then crash.
In the morning I head out and guess what? Get downtown in Wellington and drive in #%&(@ circles again!
I am the third passenger vehicle to arrive, gate opens, drive in and wait. Write in my journal, make and eat my breakfast, peruse the map... They tie a lot of the vehicles down when the weather is bad, no one is allowed on the vehicle decks while we are sailing, the door is locked.
This boat has 10 decks childrens play area and movie theatre on deck 2, bar and cafeteria on deck 8, observation(outside) deck 10, private staterooms on deck 9 and all of us steerage hung out in the cafe and lounge on deck 7. All the tourists taking pictures as we left and then again when land was sighted. Arriving at the beginning of the south Island was dramatic. The pictures cannot, do not, come close.
Me I was feeling a sense of amazement and unreality as I landed. Here I am! I almost didn't believe it would happen.
Tuesday, 2 February 2010
On to Wellington
Already, I need another swim! Raumiti beach south appeals and I turn out of the traffic. Drive past the Te Ra Waldorf school through a funky little neighbourhood to a reserve. The sign says 30 minute coastal trail walk. Ok I walk up the track down the other side and there is the beach. Folks are seriously fishing here with long lines , hauling them out with a kayak. I go for a swim, not much surf here, Apiti Island dampens the waves. I don't stay long but as I am driving out I spy an amazing construction. Something I KNOW Doug Marsh can relate to. Entirely made of drift wood it reaches skyward about 30 or 40 feet. All around the place are concrete sculptures/statues and various wooden pieces. I wander in say hello and get permission to photograph. Apparently the artist is up at Organic River Fest, yes I saw him there, driftwood sculpture and setup for a booth.
Onward towards Wellington. Beautiful beaches and the road gets busier. I have some idea where I am going but when I arrive I am not prepared for the terrain. It is up and down and there are a lot of one way streets. I am completely flustered as I wander back and forth attempting to find Rowenas. Why do I expect everywhere to be flat ? This is extreme though and it is HOT, people are not patient with my driving stopping every 5 blocks to check the map. Needless to say I have not taken any pictures. I may do that tomorrow to illustrate my folly. Eventually I figure it out.
There are many people here, some for the ACDC concert tonight. I am camping in my van which at the moment is like an oven and it is on a slant. not many choices for parking I was lucky to find a spot. I hoped to stay with some folks but they are entertaining some friends this weekend so here I am. Not sure I want to spend too much time here.
I do my computer thing in the dining room (not much choice for plugging in) and meet Alex and Martin. They offer me their leftover salad and then later we chat about travel. They have been travelling together since Kerikeri. Tomorrow they part, Martin for South America he is on an around the world ticket, and Alex for the South Island. Tomorrow is also Martins birthday so tonight they celebrate. I tag along. First stop Liquor Barn for a beer each. Lots of choice (naturally) since I don't normally drink that often I try to choose a light one. I cannot keep up to these guys though, they had at least two each with dinner. We walk past a huge statue of Queen Victoria cross the street and enter an Irish pub. Not too many patrons, we sit on the balcony and watch people walk by and talk about travelling. They have two to my one. Suddenly a gust of wind, and again. The other folks go inside. Alex tells me Wellington is known for this wind which is really blowing fierce now. It blows the empty bottles off the table. We go in, have another beer. Then move on. More and more people are on the street as the night proceeds. We try another Irish bar and I try the Red. Not so good, although in this state I wouldn't want to make any important decisions. These guys smoke so we stand out front and watch people. The women especially are dressed what I would say provocatively. Short skirts, lots of cleavage and high heels. Oh and most of em look about 20.
The ACDC concert must be over the streets are FULL! Folks have devil horns on flashing lights with ACDC on them. We hit another bar, most of which have live music. This one has a Celtic band, a woman comes up to me, asks if I can dance. Takes my beer and hands it to someone and we dance. Throws her arms around me. Retrieves my beer.
Alex, I think, is trying to set up Martin with a young woman. She seems more interested in Alex, but hangs off of me a few times as well. the press of bodies here is incredible. I am drinking water now, which the bar tender finds amusing. There are 4 of them constantly making, mixing, pouring and taking money, bank and credit cards nonstop. Almost as much fun to watch.
We stagger out of there, well I did anyway, and return to the first Irish bar which is now wall to wall people In the toilet I overhear a fellow expressing his pleasure at how great the concert was and how worth it spending $160....!
We attempt to enter a few more places but dress code doesn't allow sandals. Wander back to the hostel, say g'night and.... they are gone in the morning.
By morning the rain starts, the wind gusts all night. I am still drunk. Slow morning. I walk to to Te Papa, the Museum here. It is free! I wander around looking at the exhibits, the place is thronging. I take a few pictures, read lots of info, learn about the native birds, many of which are extinct. I step out into the weather and wander around past the bars I visited the night before. Eventually I look around and wonder "where the hell am I?" On some level I know where I am but , I don't know where Rowenas is. Tramping down streets eventually I ask someone who knows where the statue of Queen Victoria is. Elke calls as I am setting up the computer. I make some dinner then sit and watch NZ tv for a couple of hours, then sleep.
Onward towards Wellington. Beautiful beaches and the road gets busier. I have some idea where I am going but when I arrive I am not prepared for the terrain. It is up and down and there are a lot of one way streets. I am completely flustered as I wander back and forth attempting to find Rowenas. Why do I expect everywhere to be flat ? This is extreme though and it is HOT, people are not patient with my driving stopping every 5 blocks to check the map. Needless to say I have not taken any pictures. I may do that tomorrow to illustrate my folly. Eventually I figure it out.
There are many people here, some for the ACDC concert tonight. I am camping in my van which at the moment is like an oven and it is on a slant. not many choices for parking I was lucky to find a spot. I hoped to stay with some folks but they are entertaining some friends this weekend so here I am. Not sure I want to spend too much time here.
I do my computer thing in the dining room (not much choice for plugging in) and meet Alex and Martin. They offer me their leftover salad and then later we chat about travel. They have been travelling together since Kerikeri. Tomorrow they part, Martin for South America he is on an around the world ticket, and Alex for the South Island. Tomorrow is also Martins birthday so tonight they celebrate. I tag along. First stop Liquor Barn for a beer each. Lots of choice (naturally) since I don't normally drink that often I try to choose a light one. I cannot keep up to these guys though, they had at least two each with dinner. We walk past a huge statue of Queen Victoria cross the street and enter an Irish pub. Not too many patrons, we sit on the balcony and watch people walk by and talk about travelling. They have two to my one. Suddenly a gust of wind, and again. The other folks go inside. Alex tells me Wellington is known for this wind which is really blowing fierce now. It blows the empty bottles off the table. We go in, have another beer. Then move on. More and more people are on the street as the night proceeds. We try another Irish bar and I try the Red. Not so good, although in this state I wouldn't want to make any important decisions. These guys smoke so we stand out front and watch people. The women especially are dressed what I would say provocatively. Short skirts, lots of cleavage and high heels. Oh and most of em look about 20.
The ACDC concert must be over the streets are FULL! Folks have devil horns on flashing lights with ACDC on them. We hit another bar, most of which have live music. This one has a Celtic band, a woman comes up to me, asks if I can dance. Takes my beer and hands it to someone and we dance. Throws her arms around me. Retrieves my beer.
Alex, I think, is trying to set up Martin with a young woman. She seems more interested in Alex, but hangs off of me a few times as well. the press of bodies here is incredible. I am drinking water now, which the bar tender finds amusing. There are 4 of them constantly making, mixing, pouring and taking money, bank and credit cards nonstop. Almost as much fun to watch.
We stagger out of there, well I did anyway, and return to the first Irish bar which is now wall to wall people In the toilet I overhear a fellow expressing his pleasure at how great the concert was and how worth it spending $160....!
We attempt to enter a few more places but dress code doesn't allow sandals. Wander back to the hostel, say g'night and.... they are gone in the morning.
By morning the rain starts, the wind gusts all night. I am still drunk. Slow morning. I walk to to Te Papa, the Museum here. It is free! I wander around looking at the exhibits, the place is thronging. I take a few pictures, read lots of info, learn about the native birds, many of which are extinct. I step out into the weather and wander around past the bars I visited the night before. Eventually I look around and wonder "where the hell am I?" On some level I know where I am but , I don't know where Rowenas is. Tramping down streets eventually I ask someone who knows where the statue of Queen Victoria is. Elke calls as I am setting up the computer. I make some dinner then sit and watch NZ tv for a couple of hours, then sleep.
Saturday, 30 January 2010
Otaki and
New Zealand smells: fragrant, spicy ,earthy, pungent, medicinal, sweet, ferny and of course like the ocean. My tramp Otaki Forks to the Otaki River in the Tararua Forest Park was another example of that richness. I am constantly amazed by the depth of scent in the air, how from the river up to the meadow the smells can change so dramatically. Perhaps I am noticing them so well because they are unfamiliar?
At the trail head there is a sign-in to state "intentions". I looked at it... and decided I was only going for a short walk, so why fill up the book with unimportant/trivial excursions? I do however heed the sign which indicates good walking shoes recommended.
Down the track to the river and over the suspension bridge. A sign indicates choices, I take the short "40" min choice to Otaki River. ( I thought this was the Otaki River?) Very pleasant walking up to a meadow/plateau/bench, they call it a "flat". Easy, although the sun is getting hot, another crossroads (crosstrails?) and I continue along the edge of the flat. Then into the bush along a narrow trail, roots etc. Out of the sun descending rapidly. I'm thinking (again) nobody knows where I am, what if?... I slip a bit and arrive at the river. What a beautiful spot for a swim! It doesn't take long to get hot again so off with the clothes and into the water. Yes, it was cold but I put up with that and did some strokes back and forth across the pool. The current was quite fierce and I ended up in a back eddy that had me swimming hard, but hey no worries. Dry off in the sun get dressed and head out to turn my ankle on the first step up the hill. Yow! Luckily for me I know how to fall (I have done so , sooo many times) and previous experience has shown walking on it works best. In other words, ignore it and move on.
Some hikers passing by take my picture, suddenly this is action central and a group of about 12 goes by loaded down with huge packs smiles on their faces.
On the way in I stopped, as the view was quite dramatic, to take a picture until I noticed someone behind me, so stop again well off the road. Somehow they don't really give the sense of being perched on an unstable cliff edge driving along a very narrow road.
Out the woods and back on the highway, I stop in Waikanae for fuel, me and the van. No wireless at the library, but I am able to plug in and charge while I type up the mornings adventures.
At the trail head there is a sign-in to state "intentions". I looked at it... and decided I was only going for a short walk, so why fill up the book with unimportant/trivial excursions? I do however heed the sign which indicates good walking shoes recommended.
Down the track to the river and over the suspension bridge. A sign indicates choices, I take the short "40" min choice to Otaki River. ( I thought this was the Otaki River?) Very pleasant walking up to a meadow/plateau/bench, they call it a "flat". Easy, although the sun is getting hot, another crossroads (crosstrails?) and I continue along the edge of the flat. Then into the bush along a narrow trail, roots etc. Out of the sun descending rapidly. I'm thinking (again) nobody knows where I am, what if?... I slip a bit and arrive at the river. What a beautiful spot for a swim! It doesn't take long to get hot again so off with the clothes and into the water. Yes, it was cold but I put up with that and did some strokes back and forth across the pool. The current was quite fierce and I ended up in a back eddy that had me swimming hard, but hey no worries. Dry off in the sun get dressed and head out to turn my ankle on the first step up the hill. Yow! Luckily for me I know how to fall (I have done so , sooo many times) and previous experience has shown walking on it works best. In other words, ignore it and move on.
Some hikers passing by take my picture, suddenly this is action central and a group of about 12 goes by loaded down with huge packs smiles on their faces.
On the way in I stopped, as the view was quite dramatic, to take a picture until I noticed someone behind me, so stop again well off the road. Somehow they don't really give the sense of being perched on an unstable cliff edge driving along a very narrow road.
Out the woods and back on the highway, I stop in Waikanae for fuel, me and the van. No wireless at the library, but I am able to plug in and charge while I type up the mornings adventures.
onward to Otaki Beach
Driving seems endless sometimes, I am amazed at how fast these folks drive, zipping past me and yet many hold back preferring to ride my tail for miles and miles until the passing lane appears. The motorcycles though are the worst, coming up out of nowhere and suddenly right beside me this shocking noise and then gone. One fellow passed me doing at least 120. A cop appears at the next intersection on the right, waiting to join the stream. Motorcycle goes by, I go by, the guy behind me goes by, the cop pulls in behind him and stops him for what, speeding? I am going just under the limit so he can't be going over... Duh.
I pick up a hitchhiker after buying some fruit in Foxton.
Did I tell you how hard it is to find grapefruit? Actually it is not that difficult to get grapefruit from the USA although often there are none in the stores. What I want is local NZ grapefruit. They look like ugly fat oranges and taste very different. Anyway a guy at the fruit stand sent me into town and I found some.
This hitchhiker is going to Levin, he has been working on a pig farm (hmm should I have picked him up?) when he gets in I figure he is a German tourist because of his accent.... No. That is my ear not used to the NZ accent. I tell him I'm going to the festival so he suggests a route. I take it and end up not that far away but , "you can't get there from here" It is over the next road but I need to back to the highway to get there.
It turns out to be a wild goose chase. Camping is sold out and I am not encouraged to stick around. I feel old around all these young folks, families etc. Certainly there are some old guys like me but they look a little over the hill and I don't! Friday is a set up day/evening so lots of coming and going confusion, first I can't then a maybe. I walk around looking at the sights, dreads on heads on chins, bikinis and lots of small children. The usual arrays of cheap cottons from India, Indonesia and where ever else, jewelry, vegetarian food and coffee. Big signs on the approach NO ALCOHOL, YOU WILL BE SEARCHED etc. I have JUST purchased a12 pack of Tui, I have mead I purchased a couple weeks ago... I'm thinking "this is not going to work" The guys stop me at the gate , ask me if I have a ticket? No ? then go see info, park over there...
There is a beer garden! People are walking around with plastic cups full of the stuff. Organic beer, many varieties.
I check out the swimming hole at the river more kids, more bikinis, more dreads playing Djembes. Some of those gypsy wagons are here, all painted up surrounding really ancient looking trucks. I wander past the info tent and hear the fellow who gave me the maybe being quoted as saying "sorry no available camping tonight" The message seems clear. I am outa here.
I decide I need a dose of beach. The first one I come to is Kuku beach road, it goes on and on and on. Finally I come to the entrance. A Maori fellow is sitting there on his ATV. There is a sign indicating this is Maori tribal land, please respect it don't litter etc. I wave to the guy drive in and discover I am not going far and the beach is waay off in the distance beyond some running water and dunes and a swamp. I try the other road where this fellow is now parked. We turn off our respective engines. He notices right away I am not local, and suggests going to Otaki Beach further south since, "this is not a great beach" Then "I just got off work milking and I am going for a swim". After I have turned around, I emerge and he is conversing with a young woman in a red car, maybe they will go swim together? NOMB
Drive on to Otaki , buy some takeaway fish and chips with scallop,oyster and mussels YUM! Park at the end of the beach where all the fishermen are fishing. After eating I walk down to the river mouth where I speak with a couple of fishers. One couple has short rods, they are fishing for Mullet in the river mouth, everyone else has a rod at least 12' long casting out into the surf for ....? except for the two kayak fisher who are waay out there with two short rods each.
The sun sets beside Kapiti Island and I stop writing to take a few pictures. I am attacked (not really) by a swarm of little flies. Just annoying really. I hide in the van till they go away.
This is freedom camping, out on an isolated beach (no facilities) parked for the night.
The moon is up, bright as day in the night and in the morning it is an orange orb on the Norwestern horizon. Sleep seem unlikely as the fishermen start arriving, so I drive to the facilities, have some breakfast and do my writing.
I pick up a hitchhiker after buying some fruit in Foxton.
Did I tell you how hard it is to find grapefruit? Actually it is not that difficult to get grapefruit from the USA although often there are none in the stores. What I want is local NZ grapefruit. They look like ugly fat oranges and taste very different. Anyway a guy at the fruit stand sent me into town and I found some.
This hitchhiker is going to Levin, he has been working on a pig farm (hmm should I have picked him up?) when he gets in I figure he is a German tourist because of his accent.... No. That is my ear not used to the NZ accent. I tell him I'm going to the festival so he suggests a route. I take it and end up not that far away but , "you can't get there from here" It is over the next road but I need to back to the highway to get there.
It turns out to be a wild goose chase. Camping is sold out and I am not encouraged to stick around. I feel old around all these young folks, families etc. Certainly there are some old guys like me but they look a little over the hill and I don't! Friday is a set up day/evening so lots of coming and going confusion, first I can't then a maybe. I walk around looking at the sights, dreads on heads on chins, bikinis and lots of small children. The usual arrays of cheap cottons from India, Indonesia and where ever else, jewelry, vegetarian food and coffee. Big signs on the approach NO ALCOHOL, YOU WILL BE SEARCHED etc. I have JUST purchased a12 pack of Tui, I have mead I purchased a couple weeks ago... I'm thinking "this is not going to work" The guys stop me at the gate , ask me if I have a ticket? No ? then go see info, park over there...
There is a beer garden! People are walking around with plastic cups full of the stuff. Organic beer, many varieties.
I check out the swimming hole at the river more kids, more bikinis, more dreads playing Djembes. Some of those gypsy wagons are here, all painted up surrounding really ancient looking trucks. I wander past the info tent and hear the fellow who gave me the maybe being quoted as saying "sorry no available camping tonight" The message seems clear. I am outa here.
I decide I need a dose of beach. The first one I come to is Kuku beach road, it goes on and on and on. Finally I come to the entrance. A Maori fellow is sitting there on his ATV. There is a sign indicating this is Maori tribal land, please respect it don't litter etc. I wave to the guy drive in and discover I am not going far and the beach is waay off in the distance beyond some running water and dunes and a swamp. I try the other road where this fellow is now parked. We turn off our respective engines. He notices right away I am not local, and suggests going to Otaki Beach further south since, "this is not a great beach" Then "I just got off work milking and I am going for a swim". After I have turned around, I emerge and he is conversing with a young woman in a red car, maybe they will go swim together? NOMB
Drive on to Otaki , buy some takeaway fish and chips with scallop,oyster and mussels YUM! Park at the end of the beach where all the fishermen are fishing. After eating I walk down to the river mouth where I speak with a couple of fishers. One couple has short rods, they are fishing for Mullet in the river mouth, everyone else has a rod at least 12' long casting out into the surf for ....? except for the two kayak fisher who are waay out there with two short rods each.
The sun sets beside Kapiti Island and I stop writing to take a few pictures. I am attacked (not really) by a swarm of little flies. Just annoying really. I hide in the van till they go away.
This is freedom camping, out on an isolated beach (no facilities) parked for the night.
The moon is up, bright as day in the night and in the morning it is an orange orb on the Norwestern horizon. Sleep seem unlikely as the fishermen start arriving, so I drive to the facilities, have some breakfast and do my writing.
Friday, 29 January 2010
Kaupokonui Beach
Driving along the surf highway is great, except you don't see the surf! Every other road it seems leads to a surf beach, 3km or more. I felt the need to make some mileage (kilometerage?) and proceeded past. Wasn't sure I could trust the old guys memory but I found it, after backtracking cause the sign faces the other way! sign on the door says "park anywhere. I will find you in the morning. $10 to camp"
I walk along the black sand beach without my hat, I didn't even think of what might happen to my ears... Tranquility with pounding surf and a couple of Maori fellows here for a swim. We sit and they make jokes about just about everything, they are quite friendly and we shoot the breeze till they go threatening to return with beer. Unlikely. I go make some dinner and stand at the microwave with the laptop on it typing away till it is dark outside. Have a beer myself sitting at a picnic table overlooking the river mouth while the golden light fades over the Tasman Sea.
Morning comes and Taranaki is still visible so I snap another, walk down on this side of the river to survey the remains of the fishermen's detritus. Why is it folks will haul in full bottles but can't be bothered to remove the empties? When I took the sunset pictures, they were still down there casting into the rising tide.
When it came time to leave brush teeth etc, I discovered the shampoo bottle had opened up and everything was yuck. Clean-up and then on the road again. Lucky for me my kit is so small. No phone service till I got back up on the highway. I call the hostel hoping to catch Ben before he leaves to thank him for the tip. I spent too much time dawdling on the beach.
On the way to Wanganui I saw a homemade gypsy wagon and another couple on arrival here. Check out Gypsy Fair NZ. Unfortunately I will be on the South Island. Sounds like a very cool event.
Next stop Levin and the Organic River Festival.
I walk along the black sand beach without my hat, I didn't even think of what might happen to my ears... Tranquility with pounding surf and a couple of Maori fellows here for a swim. We sit and they make jokes about just about everything, they are quite friendly and we shoot the breeze till they go threatening to return with beer. Unlikely. I go make some dinner and stand at the microwave with the laptop on it typing away till it is dark outside. Have a beer myself sitting at a picnic table overlooking the river mouth while the golden light fades over the Tasman Sea.
Morning comes and Taranaki is still visible so I snap another, walk down on this side of the river to survey the remains of the fishermen's detritus. Why is it folks will haul in full bottles but can't be bothered to remove the empties? When I took the sunset pictures, they were still down there casting into the rising tide.
When it came time to leave brush teeth etc, I discovered the shampoo bottle had opened up and everything was yuck. Clean-up and then on the road again. Lucky for me my kit is so small. No phone service till I got back up on the highway. I call the hostel hoping to catch Ben before he leaves to thank him for the tip. I spent too much time dawdling on the beach.
On the way to Wanganui I saw a homemade gypsy wagon and another couple on arrival here. Check out Gypsy Fair NZ. Unfortunately I will be on the South Island. Sounds like a very cool event.
Next stop Levin and the Organic River Festival.
Kayaking Sugar Loaf Island Marine Park
After a very poor sleep, anticipating walking up in time to get to the kayak place. (which is such a joke. I wake up at 6am whether I want to or not!) I sat in the dining area and chatted with some folks from Christchurch and a German tramper. She is doing as many walks as seems possible and dearly wants to scale Taranaki. Not much point when it is cloudy which it has been for days. The South Islanders give me some distance times and recommend the glaciers.
Off to the kayak place, I scoped it out yesterday so I knew where to go. The fellow there puts roof racks on the van and loads this very light polycarbonate .... the name MAY come to me. spray skirt PFD (life vest, I think) paddle,paddle float a dn a dry bag for the camera and cell phone. he assures me if I get into trouble "some fisherman will help" hmm.
The launch point is on the otherside of town, not far from where I just came from, at the port. i carry it down to the beach and fall in trying to enter. I told the guy my Prijon is a bit "twitchy" so he gives a boat with a round bottom. Oh well nothing hurt but a bit of pride. I do my usual stretching, twist to the right, the left and tilt the hips both ways and I am off. I find it doesn't track well so reach around to flip the rudder down... Paddle back to shore and unhook the bungie.
Smooth sailing around the breakwater, a large seal is scratching his/her mouth with front flippers and erratically swimming past me. Doesn't even look up! these are big animals. They make our harbour seals look like big otters. Two huge freighters (aren't they all huge?) leave right behind me. I feel small!
Out to the big Sugar Loaf and around wide. I am feeling cautious, not used to the boat but regretting the camera is stowed in the forward hatch, a little unsure of the wave action which is quite begnign really. Almost flat calm with swells. Those swells are crashing against the less than friendly looking rocky island. Definitely nowhere to land. The reflected waves, known as clapiotis are mostly unpredictable unless you know the place well. I skirt the giant surf crashing over the unexposed reefs (the tide is falling) and circle around most of the islands, cutting through between the outermost which has extensive crashing surf on the outer edge. I head for the shore , I need to pee and I could use a break from sitting, it is hot, I'm tired, hungry and thirsty. gee somehow that whining just doesn't translate well.
As I approach I can see these little sticks on the beach moving back and forth. Hmmm? Closer I can see they are actually people , some with surf boards. That nice looking surf break from this side looks gentle. Reality check, those folks are surfing! I carry on looking for somewhere with non existant surf. Seems unlikely I will find a spot to land. I see folks swimming , girls in bikinis! Hey! Not possible to land there, around a corner though and one of the Islands has a lee shore and I slide right onto the beach. I take off most of my clothes and swim into those huge waves, body surfing towards shore. I get a smile from her.
Take a few pictures and decide I like my camera too much to risk losing it. Back in the bag in the hatch. Launching successfully I paddle back out to the big island. More confident I get in close to see the rocks, seals and blackback gulls. The island is really an enormous rock, pounded by the ocean on most sides. Where there is a cave or opening the waves make a huge drumlike boom as they smack the back face spraying up like a geyser. The rock itself seems rotten or unstable, great chunks have fallen out leaving large openings like amphitheatres, on top is bush and on one side sandstone carved out like in the gulf islands, big and little holes.
There ARE fishermen out here. Boats keep buzzing in from way out at sea and little putputs trolling around. A long passenger boat coloured up like a circus tent cruises by, I can hear someone with loudhailer waxing elequent I am sure, about the geology and biology of the place.
When I was leaving the kayak hire guy said I should text him if decided to go somewhere else after. And where would that be? I had a good time, quality trumps quantity for me. So I paddled back around the breakwater (which by the way is made of gigantic concrete legolike chunks tumbled together willy nilly), tide now way out, tons of kids frolicking in the waves and digging holes in/on the beach. The van is like an oven, thank goodness I left my food back at the hostel. Deliver the kayak and stop at the library to catch up on my blogging. Elke is good, she catches me most times. Of course we are not allowed to talk in the library. So we text, while viewing each other on Skype.
Time flies when there is lots to say/write and sometimes I need to step away from the screen....
Collected my food/ice and said my goodbyes. I was tempted to stay another night, that might have turned into a week! Anyway Ben had some advice. Stop at Kaupokanui Beach, cheap, showers and great beach. And that was so true.
Off to the kayak place, I scoped it out yesterday so I knew where to go. The fellow there puts roof racks on the van and loads this very light polycarbonate .... the name MAY come to me. spray skirt PFD (life vest, I think) paddle,paddle float a dn a dry bag for the camera and cell phone. he assures me if I get into trouble "some fisherman will help" hmm.
The launch point is on the otherside of town, not far from where I just came from, at the port. i carry it down to the beach and fall in trying to enter. I told the guy my Prijon is a bit "twitchy" so he gives a boat with a round bottom. Oh well nothing hurt but a bit of pride. I do my usual stretching, twist to the right, the left and tilt the hips both ways and I am off. I find it doesn't track well so reach around to flip the rudder down... Paddle back to shore and unhook the bungie.
Smooth sailing around the breakwater, a large seal is scratching his/her mouth with front flippers and erratically swimming past me. Doesn't even look up! these are big animals. They make our harbour seals look like big otters. Two huge freighters (aren't they all huge?) leave right behind me. I feel small!
Out to the big Sugar Loaf and around wide. I am feeling cautious, not used to the boat but regretting the camera is stowed in the forward hatch, a little unsure of the wave action which is quite begnign really. Almost flat calm with swells. Those swells are crashing against the less than friendly looking rocky island. Definitely nowhere to land. The reflected waves, known as clapiotis are mostly unpredictable unless you know the place well. I skirt the giant surf crashing over the unexposed reefs (the tide is falling) and circle around most of the islands, cutting through between the outermost which has extensive crashing surf on the outer edge. I head for the shore , I need to pee and I could use a break from sitting, it is hot, I'm tired, hungry and thirsty. gee somehow that whining just doesn't translate well.
As I approach I can see these little sticks on the beach moving back and forth. Hmmm? Closer I can see they are actually people , some with surf boards. That nice looking surf break from this side looks gentle. Reality check, those folks are surfing! I carry on looking for somewhere with non existant surf. Seems unlikely I will find a spot to land. I see folks swimming , girls in bikinis! Hey! Not possible to land there, around a corner though and one of the Islands has a lee shore and I slide right onto the beach. I take off most of my clothes and swim into those huge waves, body surfing towards shore. I get a smile from her.
Take a few pictures and decide I like my camera too much to risk losing it. Back in the bag in the hatch. Launching successfully I paddle back out to the big island. More confident I get in close to see the rocks, seals and blackback gulls. The island is really an enormous rock, pounded by the ocean on most sides. Where there is a cave or opening the waves make a huge drumlike boom as they smack the back face spraying up like a geyser. The rock itself seems rotten or unstable, great chunks have fallen out leaving large openings like amphitheatres, on top is bush and on one side sandstone carved out like in the gulf islands, big and little holes.
There ARE fishermen out here. Boats keep buzzing in from way out at sea and little putputs trolling around. A long passenger boat coloured up like a circus tent cruises by, I can hear someone with loudhailer waxing elequent I am sure, about the geology and biology of the place.
When I was leaving the kayak hire guy said I should text him if decided to go somewhere else after. And where would that be? I had a good time, quality trumps quantity for me. So I paddled back around the breakwater (which by the way is made of gigantic concrete legolike chunks tumbled together willy nilly), tide now way out, tons of kids frolicking in the waves and digging holes in/on the beach. The van is like an oven, thank goodness I left my food back at the hostel. Deliver the kayak and stop at the library to catch up on my blogging. Elke is good, she catches me most times. Of course we are not allowed to talk in the library. So we text, while viewing each other on Skype.
Time flies when there is lots to say/write and sometimes I need to step away from the screen....
Collected my food/ice and said my goodbyes. I was tempted to stay another night, that might have turned into a week! Anyway Ben had some advice. Stop at Kaupokanui Beach, cheap, showers and great beach. And that was so true.
Thursday, 28 January 2010
New Plymouth and Pukeiti
It was nice to take some time and not rush off. Hanging out, went downtown with Ben an exsurfer from Sheffield, he's been kicking around off and on for years, tells great stories about these amazing camps he's been to here and in Auz. A beach near the coral reef, world class windsurfers, fishing , fishing. Oh and in Canada too, building a cabin south of Jasper, flyfishing and pulling in masses of trout. I couldn't begin to repeat his descriptions or the slang he uses. Bollocks! He took a board keel on the front of his skull, a "hard core fin chop" had a stroke while they was savin him and walks with a limp on the left. Truly a character.
The info sites are great for helping out travelers, I booked a kayak trip for tomorrow out to the Sugarloaf Islands in the morning before the "gnarly" surf comes up. Ben , he rebooked his flight for an earlier date... running out of money... We did a little shopping then had the ubiquitous meat pie for lunch. I headed off to Pukeiti Gardens about 20 k towards Mt. Taranaki. Looking at the map Taranaki is the central focus of just about everything here, even the surfers pay homage. At the info site there are dioramas and multi-media presentations describing the history and geology of the area and the mountain itself. An evening event here at the hostel is the slicing up a cake in the shape of Mt. Egmont (guess who called it that!) One slice per. If you climb it a flag of your country is placed into the icing...
The road to Pukeiti is like most of the roads, narrow and windy, lots of sharp turns and one lane bridges. Along the way I spied a black volks bug festooned in sequins (something shiny? "brilliant") suspended on tubular metal legs. I so wanted to take a picture! But no where to pull over, so on and on. I figured to snap one on the return.
The garden is quite beautiful, this is not the season for the best show, but there were flowers. I walked along the "river" to catch some shade, it was smokin hot. The ferns are quite impressive, some with a texture like leather, the photos don't come close. I was the only visitor wandering around the 20+ acre grounds. Huge Rhodos, fancy Hydrangeas, and some identification of the native species which I found quite helpful.
After wandering for an hour and a half I headed back. The volks was gone! The legs lying loose on the lawn. Bummer dude.
Ben and I made dinner together "mighty fine tucker it was too" as more backpackers arrived, some for the dorms, some staying in the motel section, mostly folks from New Zealand. Some from Germany and I didn't catch where else.
The mossies are out, time to close down.
The info sites are great for helping out travelers, I booked a kayak trip for tomorrow out to the Sugarloaf Islands in the morning before the "gnarly" surf comes up. Ben , he rebooked his flight for an earlier date... running out of money... We did a little shopping then had the ubiquitous meat pie for lunch. I headed off to Pukeiti Gardens about 20 k towards Mt. Taranaki. Looking at the map Taranaki is the central focus of just about everything here, even the surfers pay homage. At the info site there are dioramas and multi-media presentations describing the history and geology of the area and the mountain itself. An evening event here at the hostel is the slicing up a cake in the shape of Mt. Egmont (guess who called it that!) One slice per. If you climb it a flag of your country is placed into the icing...
The road to Pukeiti is like most of the roads, narrow and windy, lots of sharp turns and one lane bridges. Along the way I spied a black volks bug festooned in sequins (something shiny? "brilliant") suspended on tubular metal legs. I so wanted to take a picture! But no where to pull over, so on and on. I figured to snap one on the return.
The garden is quite beautiful, this is not the season for the best show, but there were flowers. I walked along the "river" to catch some shade, it was smokin hot. The ferns are quite impressive, some with a texture like leather, the photos don't come close. I was the only visitor wandering around the 20+ acre grounds. Huge Rhodos, fancy Hydrangeas, and some identification of the native species which I found quite helpful.
After wandering for an hour and a half I headed back. The volks was gone! The legs lying loose on the lawn. Bummer dude.
Ben and I made dinner together "mighty fine tucker it was too" as more backpackers arrived, some for the dorms, some staying in the motel section, mostly folks from New Zealand. Some from Germany and I didn't catch where else.
The mossies are out, time to close down.
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