Camped out at Atamia, goats and chickens, the hillside planted with thousands of trees for coppicing, food and firewood. Some wwoofers arrive, three fellows from England, they are sleeping in the building so hopefully will remember to unlock door so I can access the toilet. I wander around the property, speak with the french horticulturist (whose name eludes me at the moment). He rails on about the restrictive import rules and weak genetic material. His mulberries are not thriving. He is a big fan of bio-char, check it out on the web. They are using it here as a soil amendment with good results.
Next morning in Motueka, at the library! Again 1 hour limit, so after my hour sat out front on the bench and skyped, a nice shady spot, watching folks walk by and go in and out of the library. Laundry, hung it up in the van and went for a drive. The beach at Kaiteriteri is all that was promised, beautiful golden sand, the water an aquamarine green like in all the photos of desirable beaches. And of course sun bathers, bathers and the local specialty, kayakers. I saw a tour bus pulling a trailer load of kayaks, and at least 5 vans pulling trailer loads of kayaks. definitely the kayaking destination. another winding road after my swim, some great vistas, not to mention the real estate. HEY! I think I just figured out my next career change! Real estate photographer, I get to go around snapping pics of amazing houses and their views....Once again I missed that wave. Back to Atamaia I walk up the hill to visit some of the residents. Joanna kindly answers my questions and has a few for me. They are planning a big community, in its infancy planting lots of trees. determining the social focus.
I have a chat finally with Jurgen, he speaks about the possibilities of collapse, peak oil and purchasing the tools needed for survival. The vision of community he has stretches into the future 100, 200 years. Says they are attracting folks with university degrees, forward thinkers. I wonder how they will manage without creating some community on a social level. He is unconcerned. That will develop on it's own with the children and grandchildren of the community members.
I leave the next morning driving up to Takaka hill and the Ngarua Cave. I am among the first of day and watch as the cave is unlocked. Our guide is informative and friendly filling the time inside the cavern with stories and photo ops. On emerging up a ladder she tells about one of the first to write his name inside, followed by many more. She also mentions Harwoods Hole the deepest cavern in the southern hemisphere. Hmm sounds fascinating so why not? I see sinkholes and evidence of limestone everywhere here. The sink holes are dramatic, where the landscape descends abruptly often quite deep. Some have holes at the bottom leading to some subterranean hobbit hole or rivers and passageways going in all directions.
I walk in through a beech forest with very little undergrowth, silent no birds... I wonder if this is ominous. I also wonder how safe my van is since the trail takes 45min just to get there. My better judgement kicks in and I walk on. The limestone is quite distictive and everywhere so some of the trail involves negotiating around over and through. The trail to the lookout is steep and somehow I manage to step off and end up traversing some incredibly sharp rocks into some rather dense bush. I relocate the trail proceeding up and the lookout is carved and broken, finding it somewhat difficult to stand on safely ("I reckon".) I crawl/crabwalk to the edge and attempt to figure out where the hole is. As it turns out it is not that visible unless one hangs over the edge which I was not prepared to do even if I knew where to look.
Descend again and wander on to the hole. Another collection of boulders and sharp edges, I manage to get close enough to snap a picture and do a panorama of the cliffs around before retreating from certain doom should I get too close. I didn't see one person on the way in yet I meet a dozen in 3 different groups on the way out.
Onward to Takaka over the hill and down the other side, a dramatic descent, the usual hairpins and sharp corners with an incredible view. However I didn't take any pictures! I missed the lookout spot, I promise myself to catch it on my way out. The valley here is beautiful, pastoral and surrounded by big mountains. I cruise along into town and determine my route at the library. Backtracking somewhat I head out to Wainui Bay stopping at almost every curve and corner for pictures once I get to the coast. The rock formations are amazing, the beaches divine, I dip my feet and finally arrive at Tui.
Monday, 1 March 2010
Friday, 26 February 2010
Golden Bay
Permaculture Design Course. PDC an international mix of people and ideas bringing me to understand more deeply my own journey of learning all these many years. Where do I start? So many epiphanies, aha moments and the clunk of "I get it" And of course heaps of new knowledge all tied together in and around me. I made some new friends, explored an amazing environment, swam naked in a (relatively) warm ocean and taught/shared what I know with both teachers and students. As well the community of Tui itself was part of the adventure, meeting the residents, hearing about their journey and seeing their lives in a bit of a fish bowl. Quite an experience. The rainbow gathering and then Luminate brought the tribe and with all the travellers, folks tramping through Abel Tasmen and the wwoofers, it made for a rich mix of humanity walking the streets of Takaka, filling the cafes, markets and of course the library.
It has been awhile for me to write this blog, I am somewhat hesitant to go into it all. To start as I drove towards Tui, I found it difficult not to stop every 10 minutes to take more pictures. The scenery is stunning, overhanging sedimentary rock riddled with holes, blue green ocean stretching for miles, golden sand on endless beaches. Tui is at the end of the road up against the park, some interesting architecture and a sense of community that I judge needs more people to bridge the gaps. They have been a community however for over 25 years, longer than a lot of marriages. Recently(when?) the remaining members realized they needed to attract younger people to survive and some have come. Much possibility exists here. Myself I am energized and inspired to bring home all that I can of the lessons and learnings. I want to immerse myself in the creation of sustainable community , gardens, food forest and passing on the bits of wisdom I acknowlege I have accumulated. I see bringing the principles to mens' work, to my work in education and of course into all my relationships.
Meanwhile I am chomping at the bit to get moving, sharing my jokes and helping translate them for Hiroko my temporary travelling companion. After the course ended a group of us headed up the bay and out to the west coast. We followed a gravel road to its end, the scenery stunning in it's majesty and uniqueness. (It does continue into a small community but to get there one needs to ford the Anatori River) Spent the night camping near the beach. In the morning walked for an hour north with David enjoying the glistening foam sweeping across white sand. Past cliffs of clay and secret grottoes where streams poured forth their sweet fresh water, mindful of course of the sheep and cattle ever present in the steep pasture behind. Saw rocks half quartz in a straight line and stripes and crosses all worn smooth in the relentless crashing of surf stretching for miles, kilometres and leagues up and down the coast. The sun rising behind us lighting up the white crests giving the scene an ethereal quality. Why would I want leave here, ever?
I had not allowed myself to entertain those thoughts, finding myself scheming to sell my ticket blow off my job and accept I might seldom if ever see my family.... woah! Stop right there, get real! Yikes! Accept the fact that this is paradise and I am on vacation and I have a life that I love somewhere else, a partner and companion who I want to share more of these experiences with, and oh yeah camping at Pachena this summer!
After breakfast we dicked around getting ready to leave, it was pathetic really, none of us really wanted to go, so when Jen suggested crossing the river and checking out some big rocks , off we went. Gratitude all around, it was phenomenal, slits in the cliff, great flat platforms with the waves crashing all around, surge channels, the cliff with scooped out caves like mini and massive amphitheatres and an endless beach that beckoned like some siren spirit to explore, following the scent of sea and sand into some kind of paradisical oblivion. I kept my senses together and turned back before I succumbed. We almost lost Roo and David though... I crawled into the womb of the earth and somersaulted out birthing myself in metamorphosis of flesh and sand, rock and sea.
More to follow, I promise.
It has been awhile for me to write this blog, I am somewhat hesitant to go into it all. To start as I drove towards Tui, I found it difficult not to stop every 10 minutes to take more pictures. The scenery is stunning, overhanging sedimentary rock riddled with holes, blue green ocean stretching for miles, golden sand on endless beaches. Tui is at the end of the road up against the park, some interesting architecture and a sense of community that I judge needs more people to bridge the gaps. They have been a community however for over 25 years, longer than a lot of marriages. Recently(when?) the remaining members realized they needed to attract younger people to survive and some have come. Much possibility exists here. Myself I am energized and inspired to bring home all that I can of the lessons and learnings. I want to immerse myself in the creation of sustainable community , gardens, food forest and passing on the bits of wisdom I acknowlege I have accumulated. I see bringing the principles to mens' work, to my work in education and of course into all my relationships.
Meanwhile I am chomping at the bit to get moving, sharing my jokes and helping translate them for Hiroko my temporary travelling companion. After the course ended a group of us headed up the bay and out to the west coast. We followed a gravel road to its end, the scenery stunning in it's majesty and uniqueness. (It does continue into a small community but to get there one needs to ford the Anatori River) Spent the night camping near the beach. In the morning walked for an hour north with David enjoying the glistening foam sweeping across white sand. Past cliffs of clay and secret grottoes where streams poured forth their sweet fresh water, mindful of course of the sheep and cattle ever present in the steep pasture behind. Saw rocks half quartz in a straight line and stripes and crosses all worn smooth in the relentless crashing of surf stretching for miles, kilometres and leagues up and down the coast. The sun rising behind us lighting up the white crests giving the scene an ethereal quality. Why would I want leave here, ever?
I had not allowed myself to entertain those thoughts, finding myself scheming to sell my ticket blow off my job and accept I might seldom if ever see my family.... woah! Stop right there, get real! Yikes! Accept the fact that this is paradise and I am on vacation and I have a life that I love somewhere else, a partner and companion who I want to share more of these experiences with, and oh yeah camping at Pachena this summer!
After breakfast we dicked around getting ready to leave, it was pathetic really, none of us really wanted to go, so when Jen suggested crossing the river and checking out some big rocks , off we went. Gratitude all around, it was phenomenal, slits in the cliff, great flat platforms with the waves crashing all around, surge channels, the cliff with scooped out caves like mini and massive amphitheatres and an endless beach that beckoned like some siren spirit to explore, following the scent of sea and sand into some kind of paradisical oblivion. I kept my senses together and turned back before I succumbed. We almost lost Roo and David though... I crawled into the womb of the earth and somersaulted out birthing myself in metamorphosis of flesh and sand, rock and sea.
More to follow, I promise.
Tuesday, 2 February 2010
Picton to Motueka
Picton. After waiting so long and being near the end of the loading it was a bonus to be disembarking at the head of the line. I went straight for the library. It was crawling with tourists and their laptops. A sign on the table suggested limiting ones self to an hour. I rearranged my departure giving myself 4 more days on the South Island, reaching out to Jurgen in Nelson... (Not! turns out he is an hour north in Motueka) a fellow starting up an Eco-Village/intentional community. Caught up on some email and didn't charge my phone...
Boy did I regret that.
Sat outside and Skyped with Elke, the wireless reaches and doesn't disturb the patrons. That facilitated a conversation with a local fellow who was not impressed with tourists eating their breakfast in the library while checking their mail. "Foreigners" He wasn't too impressed with local gov't either allowing spraying of some toxic chemicals by some local logging contractor. And the phones! He maintained that New Zealand has the most expensive telephone coverage in the world... on and on.
I took the Queen Charlotte Drive out of Picton. Up and up it goes, switch backs galore with awesome views along the ridge looking across the sound. And speaking of sound, I managed to record the insects in the trees with a short video of the vista below above Havelock estuary of the Pelorus and Wakamarina Rivers. Behind me Mahau Sound, to the right Hikapu Reach.
I was stopping frequently until Havelock. The road turns inland, gets wider and the speed increases. Still lots of hairpins and up and down through a pine forest that looks combed, the rows are so straight. I stop again at Pelarus Bridge, there is an opportunity to walk for an hour to waterfalls but it is late in the day. This is a beautiful area, the river looks mighty inviting... Not a lot of traffic makes the driving easy.
Stop in Nelson to turn on my phone, check messages. Dead. Insert sim card in other phone, check messages attempt to return call... right, he can't hear me. The phone dance happens again with pay phones. Punching in expired numbers, I find a phone that takes coins. Does it ever! I did connect and after getting lost briefly in Richmond an hours driving has me standing by the clocktower in Motueka. Jurgen and family arrive, we go for ice cream then out to the property where I will camp for a couple of days.
Boy did I regret that.
Sat outside and Skyped with Elke, the wireless reaches and doesn't disturb the patrons. That facilitated a conversation with a local fellow who was not impressed with tourists eating their breakfast in the library while checking their mail. "Foreigners" He wasn't too impressed with local gov't either allowing spraying of some toxic chemicals by some local logging contractor. And the phones! He maintained that New Zealand has the most expensive telephone coverage in the world... on and on.
I took the Queen Charlotte Drive out of Picton. Up and up it goes, switch backs galore with awesome views along the ridge looking across the sound. And speaking of sound, I managed to record the insects in the trees with a short video of the vista below above Havelock estuary of the Pelorus and Wakamarina Rivers. Behind me Mahau Sound, to the right Hikapu Reach.
I was stopping frequently until Havelock. The road turns inland, gets wider and the speed increases. Still lots of hairpins and up and down through a pine forest that looks combed, the rows are so straight. I stop again at Pelarus Bridge, there is an opportunity to walk for an hour to waterfalls but it is late in the day. This is a beautiful area, the river looks mighty inviting... Not a lot of traffic makes the driving easy.
Stop in Nelson to turn on my phone, check messages. Dead. Insert sim card in other phone, check messages attempt to return call... right, he can't hear me. The phone dance happens again with pay phones. Punching in expired numbers, I find a phone that takes coins. Does it ever! I did connect and after getting lost briefly in Richmond an hours driving has me standing by the clocktower in Motueka. Jurgen and family arrive, we go for ice cream then out to the property where I will camp for a couple of days.
Wellington Continued
Morning comes with a bit of wind, overcast still. I collect my frozen water containers and my food (except my carrots!!!) and make my departure. cruising down the hill I stop at the grocery to replenish supplies. I know where I am going today, Oriental Parade. It begins the drive around to the beaches and bays of Wellington. It is raining, but I stop anyway to take pictures as I follow the coastline around to the south. Some great possibilities for freedom camping here! The houses along some of this are one deep the cliff right up against the backdoor (if they have one) about halfway the batteries give out in the camera. I continue driving around. This is very cool, I like this place a lot. At the end of the road I find my spot for the night. I follow a road that takes me directly back to my first experience of driving in Wellington, Brooklyn. I continue on towards the ferry terminals. I want to be able to find them with as little trouble as possible in the morning. That done I return to the grocery.
Then I try to find the library. I asked someone who suggested it was, "way over that way, up the hill" These one way streets where left turns when the road veers right are restricted and vice versa are frustrating. I end up driving in circles! Finally I park the van and walk. And walk and walk and walk. Jeez I am not doing much better on foot! I do find it, very close to where I started out. I plug in my battery charger... nothing, try a different plug, try the laptop, yes there is power. Hmmm. Walk back to Dick Smith "your techperts" or whatever. The fellow there informs me I have fried my charger. NZ current is 240v to NA 120v. Yikes! I buy a charger. Walk back to the van to confirm with my 12v adaptor. Yep, fried.
I decide I need a respite. I drive up the hill and into the Botanical Gardens. Either I don't get peoples directions or they don't explain well. Either way I end up driving IN the Botanical gardens and park at the WWF centre in a visitor spot. I wander through, cameraless enjoying the peace of growing plants well cared for. New Zealand Native plants at risk, a fern garden and the Australian garden. Some fairly weird plants too. I enjoyed the signs indicating variety, and history. For comic relief I took the trolley down the hill, then up again. That was worth the $5.
After yesterday my feet get sore fast, so I plug in the charger and start driving. I am trying to get to Maraka Beach. Again the circles. Through tunnels, over viaducts, around mountaintops. Up down and around. Finally I ask a fellow who gives me quite precise instructions, over the viaduct, through the tunnel onto Chaytor Street then up Karoi Rd. Voila! I am through this maze and on my way. I see a wind farm then some signs indicating some displeasure? They say "DO SOMETHING" and pictures reminiscent of the "scream" Yet another winding road. I believe after some reading that my use of the word windy for winding has been incorrect. In any case this road winds around and ends at a beach where the sun was shining and the wind was blowing. I squeeze a couple more pictures out of the batteries. I leave the van running to maximize the charging.
I head back to Brooklyn and Happy Valley to Owhiro Bay, then back around to Scorching Bay turn around taking pictures at all the places I missed. Island Bay, Breaker Bay, Mahanga Bay. I see kite surfers in Lyall Bay in front of the airport, snap shots of some interesting houses. Now I am hungry, tired of cheese, salami and avocado sandwiches. Back to Brooklyn where the Golden Lotus grabs my eye. Chinese sounds good. Inside I discover it is now an Ethiopian menu. For $18 I get a wonderful meal and no tipping here, they get insulted! While I wait for the food I finally figure out the texting on this phone. The mode of finishing my words was really challenging me.
Drive back to Te Kopahou Reserve, walk on the beach for 20 min. and then crash.
In the morning I head out and guess what? Get downtown in Wellington and drive in #%&(@ circles again!
I am the third passenger vehicle to arrive, gate opens, drive in and wait. Write in my journal, make and eat my breakfast, peruse the map... They tie a lot of the vehicles down when the weather is bad, no one is allowed on the vehicle decks while we are sailing, the door is locked.
This boat has 10 decks childrens play area and movie theatre on deck 2, bar and cafeteria on deck 8, observation(outside) deck 10, private staterooms on deck 9 and all of us steerage hung out in the cafe and lounge on deck 7. All the tourists taking pictures as we left and then again when land was sighted. Arriving at the beginning of the south Island was dramatic. The pictures cannot, do not, come close.
Me I was feeling a sense of amazement and unreality as I landed. Here I am! I almost didn't believe it would happen.
Then I try to find the library. I asked someone who suggested it was, "way over that way, up the hill" These one way streets where left turns when the road veers right are restricted and vice versa are frustrating. I end up driving in circles! Finally I park the van and walk. And walk and walk and walk. Jeez I am not doing much better on foot! I do find it, very close to where I started out. I plug in my battery charger... nothing, try a different plug, try the laptop, yes there is power. Hmmm. Walk back to Dick Smith "your techperts" or whatever. The fellow there informs me I have fried my charger. NZ current is 240v to NA 120v. Yikes! I buy a charger. Walk back to the van to confirm with my 12v adaptor. Yep, fried.
I decide I need a respite. I drive up the hill and into the Botanical Gardens. Either I don't get peoples directions or they don't explain well. Either way I end up driving IN the Botanical gardens and park at the WWF centre in a visitor spot. I wander through, cameraless enjoying the peace of growing plants well cared for. New Zealand Native plants at risk, a fern garden and the Australian garden. Some fairly weird plants too. I enjoyed the signs indicating variety, and history. For comic relief I took the trolley down the hill, then up again. That was worth the $5.
After yesterday my feet get sore fast, so I plug in the charger and start driving. I am trying to get to Maraka Beach. Again the circles. Through tunnels, over viaducts, around mountaintops. Up down and around. Finally I ask a fellow who gives me quite precise instructions, over the viaduct, through the tunnel onto Chaytor Street then up Karoi Rd. Voila! I am through this maze and on my way. I see a wind farm then some signs indicating some displeasure? They say "DO SOMETHING" and pictures reminiscent of the "scream" Yet another winding road. I believe after some reading that my use of the word windy for winding has been incorrect. In any case this road winds around and ends at a beach where the sun was shining and the wind was blowing. I squeeze a couple more pictures out of the batteries. I leave the van running to maximize the charging.
I head back to Brooklyn and Happy Valley to Owhiro Bay, then back around to Scorching Bay turn around taking pictures at all the places I missed. Island Bay, Breaker Bay, Mahanga Bay. I see kite surfers in Lyall Bay in front of the airport, snap shots of some interesting houses. Now I am hungry, tired of cheese, salami and avocado sandwiches. Back to Brooklyn where the Golden Lotus grabs my eye. Chinese sounds good. Inside I discover it is now an Ethiopian menu. For $18 I get a wonderful meal and no tipping here, they get insulted! While I wait for the food I finally figure out the texting on this phone. The mode of finishing my words was really challenging me.
Drive back to Te Kopahou Reserve, walk on the beach for 20 min. and then crash.
In the morning I head out and guess what? Get downtown in Wellington and drive in #%&(@ circles again!
I am the third passenger vehicle to arrive, gate opens, drive in and wait. Write in my journal, make and eat my breakfast, peruse the map... They tie a lot of the vehicles down when the weather is bad, no one is allowed on the vehicle decks while we are sailing, the door is locked.
This boat has 10 decks childrens play area and movie theatre on deck 2, bar and cafeteria on deck 8, observation(outside) deck 10, private staterooms on deck 9 and all of us steerage hung out in the cafe and lounge on deck 7. All the tourists taking pictures as we left and then again when land was sighted. Arriving at the beginning of the south Island was dramatic. The pictures cannot, do not, come close.
Me I was feeling a sense of amazement and unreality as I landed. Here I am! I almost didn't believe it would happen.
On to Wellington
Already, I need another swim! Raumiti beach south appeals and I turn out of the traffic. Drive past the Te Ra Waldorf school through a funky little neighbourhood to a reserve. The sign says 30 minute coastal trail walk. Ok I walk up the track down the other side and there is the beach. Folks are seriously fishing here with long lines , hauling them out with a kayak. I go for a swim, not much surf here, Apiti Island dampens the waves. I don't stay long but as I am driving out I spy an amazing construction. Something I KNOW Doug Marsh can relate to. Entirely made of drift wood it reaches skyward about 30 or 40 feet. All around the place are concrete sculptures/statues and various wooden pieces. I wander in say hello and get permission to photograph. Apparently the artist is up at Organic River Fest, yes I saw him there, driftwood sculpture and setup for a booth.
Onward towards Wellington. Beautiful beaches and the road gets busier. I have some idea where I am going but when I arrive I am not prepared for the terrain. It is up and down and there are a lot of one way streets. I am completely flustered as I wander back and forth attempting to find Rowenas. Why do I expect everywhere to be flat ? This is extreme though and it is HOT, people are not patient with my driving stopping every 5 blocks to check the map. Needless to say I have not taken any pictures. I may do that tomorrow to illustrate my folly. Eventually I figure it out.
There are many people here, some for the ACDC concert tonight. I am camping in my van which at the moment is like an oven and it is on a slant. not many choices for parking I was lucky to find a spot. I hoped to stay with some folks but they are entertaining some friends this weekend so here I am. Not sure I want to spend too much time here.
I do my computer thing in the dining room (not much choice for plugging in) and meet Alex and Martin. They offer me their leftover salad and then later we chat about travel. They have been travelling together since Kerikeri. Tomorrow they part, Martin for South America he is on an around the world ticket, and Alex for the South Island. Tomorrow is also Martins birthday so tonight they celebrate. I tag along. First stop Liquor Barn for a beer each. Lots of choice (naturally) since I don't normally drink that often I try to choose a light one. I cannot keep up to these guys though, they had at least two each with dinner. We walk past a huge statue of Queen Victoria cross the street and enter an Irish pub. Not too many patrons, we sit on the balcony and watch people walk by and talk about travelling. They have two to my one. Suddenly a gust of wind, and again. The other folks go inside. Alex tells me Wellington is known for this wind which is really blowing fierce now. It blows the empty bottles off the table. We go in, have another beer. Then move on. More and more people are on the street as the night proceeds. We try another Irish bar and I try the Red. Not so good, although in this state I wouldn't want to make any important decisions. These guys smoke so we stand out front and watch people. The women especially are dressed what I would say provocatively. Short skirts, lots of cleavage and high heels. Oh and most of em look about 20.
The ACDC concert must be over the streets are FULL! Folks have devil horns on flashing lights with ACDC on them. We hit another bar, most of which have live music. This one has a Celtic band, a woman comes up to me, asks if I can dance. Takes my beer and hands it to someone and we dance. Throws her arms around me. Retrieves my beer.
Alex, I think, is trying to set up Martin with a young woman. She seems more interested in Alex, but hangs off of me a few times as well. the press of bodies here is incredible. I am drinking water now, which the bar tender finds amusing. There are 4 of them constantly making, mixing, pouring and taking money, bank and credit cards nonstop. Almost as much fun to watch.
We stagger out of there, well I did anyway, and return to the first Irish bar which is now wall to wall people In the toilet I overhear a fellow expressing his pleasure at how great the concert was and how worth it spending $160....!
We attempt to enter a few more places but dress code doesn't allow sandals. Wander back to the hostel, say g'night and.... they are gone in the morning.
By morning the rain starts, the wind gusts all night. I am still drunk. Slow morning. I walk to to Te Papa, the Museum here. It is free! I wander around looking at the exhibits, the place is thronging. I take a few pictures, read lots of info, learn about the native birds, many of which are extinct. I step out into the weather and wander around past the bars I visited the night before. Eventually I look around and wonder "where the hell am I?" On some level I know where I am but , I don't know where Rowenas is. Tramping down streets eventually I ask someone who knows where the statue of Queen Victoria is. Elke calls as I am setting up the computer. I make some dinner then sit and watch NZ tv for a couple of hours, then sleep.
Onward towards Wellington. Beautiful beaches and the road gets busier. I have some idea where I am going but when I arrive I am not prepared for the terrain. It is up and down and there are a lot of one way streets. I am completely flustered as I wander back and forth attempting to find Rowenas. Why do I expect everywhere to be flat ? This is extreme though and it is HOT, people are not patient with my driving stopping every 5 blocks to check the map. Needless to say I have not taken any pictures. I may do that tomorrow to illustrate my folly. Eventually I figure it out.
There are many people here, some for the ACDC concert tonight. I am camping in my van which at the moment is like an oven and it is on a slant. not many choices for parking I was lucky to find a spot. I hoped to stay with some folks but they are entertaining some friends this weekend so here I am. Not sure I want to spend too much time here.
I do my computer thing in the dining room (not much choice for plugging in) and meet Alex and Martin. They offer me their leftover salad and then later we chat about travel. They have been travelling together since Kerikeri. Tomorrow they part, Martin for South America he is on an around the world ticket, and Alex for the South Island. Tomorrow is also Martins birthday so tonight they celebrate. I tag along. First stop Liquor Barn for a beer each. Lots of choice (naturally) since I don't normally drink that often I try to choose a light one. I cannot keep up to these guys though, they had at least two each with dinner. We walk past a huge statue of Queen Victoria cross the street and enter an Irish pub. Not too many patrons, we sit on the balcony and watch people walk by and talk about travelling. They have two to my one. Suddenly a gust of wind, and again. The other folks go inside. Alex tells me Wellington is known for this wind which is really blowing fierce now. It blows the empty bottles off the table. We go in, have another beer. Then move on. More and more people are on the street as the night proceeds. We try another Irish bar and I try the Red. Not so good, although in this state I wouldn't want to make any important decisions. These guys smoke so we stand out front and watch people. The women especially are dressed what I would say provocatively. Short skirts, lots of cleavage and high heels. Oh and most of em look about 20.
The ACDC concert must be over the streets are FULL! Folks have devil horns on flashing lights with ACDC on them. We hit another bar, most of which have live music. This one has a Celtic band, a woman comes up to me, asks if I can dance. Takes my beer and hands it to someone and we dance. Throws her arms around me. Retrieves my beer.
Alex, I think, is trying to set up Martin with a young woman. She seems more interested in Alex, but hangs off of me a few times as well. the press of bodies here is incredible. I am drinking water now, which the bar tender finds amusing. There are 4 of them constantly making, mixing, pouring and taking money, bank and credit cards nonstop. Almost as much fun to watch.
We stagger out of there, well I did anyway, and return to the first Irish bar which is now wall to wall people In the toilet I overhear a fellow expressing his pleasure at how great the concert was and how worth it spending $160....!
We attempt to enter a few more places but dress code doesn't allow sandals. Wander back to the hostel, say g'night and.... they are gone in the morning.
By morning the rain starts, the wind gusts all night. I am still drunk. Slow morning. I walk to to Te Papa, the Museum here. It is free! I wander around looking at the exhibits, the place is thronging. I take a few pictures, read lots of info, learn about the native birds, many of which are extinct. I step out into the weather and wander around past the bars I visited the night before. Eventually I look around and wonder "where the hell am I?" On some level I know where I am but , I don't know where Rowenas is. Tramping down streets eventually I ask someone who knows where the statue of Queen Victoria is. Elke calls as I am setting up the computer. I make some dinner then sit and watch NZ tv for a couple of hours, then sleep.
Saturday, 30 January 2010
Otaki and
New Zealand smells: fragrant, spicy ,earthy, pungent, medicinal, sweet, ferny and of course like the ocean. My tramp Otaki Forks to the Otaki River in the Tararua Forest Park was another example of that richness. I am constantly amazed by the depth of scent in the air, how from the river up to the meadow the smells can change so dramatically. Perhaps I am noticing them so well because they are unfamiliar?
At the trail head there is a sign-in to state "intentions". I looked at it... and decided I was only going for a short walk, so why fill up the book with unimportant/trivial excursions? I do however heed the sign which indicates good walking shoes recommended.
Down the track to the river and over the suspension bridge. A sign indicates choices, I take the short "40" min choice to Otaki River. ( I thought this was the Otaki River?) Very pleasant walking up to a meadow/plateau/bench, they call it a "flat". Easy, although the sun is getting hot, another crossroads (crosstrails?) and I continue along the edge of the flat. Then into the bush along a narrow trail, roots etc. Out of the sun descending rapidly. I'm thinking (again) nobody knows where I am, what if?... I slip a bit and arrive at the river. What a beautiful spot for a swim! It doesn't take long to get hot again so off with the clothes and into the water. Yes, it was cold but I put up with that and did some strokes back and forth across the pool. The current was quite fierce and I ended up in a back eddy that had me swimming hard, but hey no worries. Dry off in the sun get dressed and head out to turn my ankle on the first step up the hill. Yow! Luckily for me I know how to fall (I have done so , sooo many times) and previous experience has shown walking on it works best. In other words, ignore it and move on.
Some hikers passing by take my picture, suddenly this is action central and a group of about 12 goes by loaded down with huge packs smiles on their faces.
On the way in I stopped, as the view was quite dramatic, to take a picture until I noticed someone behind me, so stop again well off the road. Somehow they don't really give the sense of being perched on an unstable cliff edge driving along a very narrow road.
Out the woods and back on the highway, I stop in Waikanae for fuel, me and the van. No wireless at the library, but I am able to plug in and charge while I type up the mornings adventures.
At the trail head there is a sign-in to state "intentions". I looked at it... and decided I was only going for a short walk, so why fill up the book with unimportant/trivial excursions? I do however heed the sign which indicates good walking shoes recommended.
Down the track to the river and over the suspension bridge. A sign indicates choices, I take the short "40" min choice to Otaki River. ( I thought this was the Otaki River?) Very pleasant walking up to a meadow/plateau/bench, they call it a "flat". Easy, although the sun is getting hot, another crossroads (crosstrails?) and I continue along the edge of the flat. Then into the bush along a narrow trail, roots etc. Out of the sun descending rapidly. I'm thinking (again) nobody knows where I am, what if?... I slip a bit and arrive at the river. What a beautiful spot for a swim! It doesn't take long to get hot again so off with the clothes and into the water. Yes, it was cold but I put up with that and did some strokes back and forth across the pool. The current was quite fierce and I ended up in a back eddy that had me swimming hard, but hey no worries. Dry off in the sun get dressed and head out to turn my ankle on the first step up the hill. Yow! Luckily for me I know how to fall (I have done so , sooo many times) and previous experience has shown walking on it works best. In other words, ignore it and move on.
Some hikers passing by take my picture, suddenly this is action central and a group of about 12 goes by loaded down with huge packs smiles on their faces.
On the way in I stopped, as the view was quite dramatic, to take a picture until I noticed someone behind me, so stop again well off the road. Somehow they don't really give the sense of being perched on an unstable cliff edge driving along a very narrow road.
Out the woods and back on the highway, I stop in Waikanae for fuel, me and the van. No wireless at the library, but I am able to plug in and charge while I type up the mornings adventures.
onward to Otaki Beach
Driving seems endless sometimes, I am amazed at how fast these folks drive, zipping past me and yet many hold back preferring to ride my tail for miles and miles until the passing lane appears. The motorcycles though are the worst, coming up out of nowhere and suddenly right beside me this shocking noise and then gone. One fellow passed me doing at least 120. A cop appears at the next intersection on the right, waiting to join the stream. Motorcycle goes by, I go by, the guy behind me goes by, the cop pulls in behind him and stops him for what, speeding? I am going just under the limit so he can't be going over... Duh.
I pick up a hitchhiker after buying some fruit in Foxton.
Did I tell you how hard it is to find grapefruit? Actually it is not that difficult to get grapefruit from the USA although often there are none in the stores. What I want is local NZ grapefruit. They look like ugly fat oranges and taste very different. Anyway a guy at the fruit stand sent me into town and I found some.
This hitchhiker is going to Levin, he has been working on a pig farm (hmm should I have picked him up?) when he gets in I figure he is a German tourist because of his accent.... No. That is my ear not used to the NZ accent. I tell him I'm going to the festival so he suggests a route. I take it and end up not that far away but , "you can't get there from here" It is over the next road but I need to back to the highway to get there.
It turns out to be a wild goose chase. Camping is sold out and I am not encouraged to stick around. I feel old around all these young folks, families etc. Certainly there are some old guys like me but they look a little over the hill and I don't! Friday is a set up day/evening so lots of coming and going confusion, first I can't then a maybe. I walk around looking at the sights, dreads on heads on chins, bikinis and lots of small children. The usual arrays of cheap cottons from India, Indonesia and where ever else, jewelry, vegetarian food and coffee. Big signs on the approach NO ALCOHOL, YOU WILL BE SEARCHED etc. I have JUST purchased a12 pack of Tui, I have mead I purchased a couple weeks ago... I'm thinking "this is not going to work" The guys stop me at the gate , ask me if I have a ticket? No ? then go see info, park over there...
There is a beer garden! People are walking around with plastic cups full of the stuff. Organic beer, many varieties.
I check out the swimming hole at the river more kids, more bikinis, more dreads playing Djembes. Some of those gypsy wagons are here, all painted up surrounding really ancient looking trucks. I wander past the info tent and hear the fellow who gave me the maybe being quoted as saying "sorry no available camping tonight" The message seems clear. I am outa here.
I decide I need a dose of beach. The first one I come to is Kuku beach road, it goes on and on and on. Finally I come to the entrance. A Maori fellow is sitting there on his ATV. There is a sign indicating this is Maori tribal land, please respect it don't litter etc. I wave to the guy drive in and discover I am not going far and the beach is waay off in the distance beyond some running water and dunes and a swamp. I try the other road where this fellow is now parked. We turn off our respective engines. He notices right away I am not local, and suggests going to Otaki Beach further south since, "this is not a great beach" Then "I just got off work milking and I am going for a swim". After I have turned around, I emerge and he is conversing with a young woman in a red car, maybe they will go swim together? NOMB
Drive on to Otaki , buy some takeaway fish and chips with scallop,oyster and mussels YUM! Park at the end of the beach where all the fishermen are fishing. After eating I walk down to the river mouth where I speak with a couple of fishers. One couple has short rods, they are fishing for Mullet in the river mouth, everyone else has a rod at least 12' long casting out into the surf for ....? except for the two kayak fisher who are waay out there with two short rods each.
The sun sets beside Kapiti Island and I stop writing to take a few pictures. I am attacked (not really) by a swarm of little flies. Just annoying really. I hide in the van till they go away.
This is freedom camping, out on an isolated beach (no facilities) parked for the night.
The moon is up, bright as day in the night and in the morning it is an orange orb on the Norwestern horizon. Sleep seem unlikely as the fishermen start arriving, so I drive to the facilities, have some breakfast and do my writing.
I pick up a hitchhiker after buying some fruit in Foxton.
Did I tell you how hard it is to find grapefruit? Actually it is not that difficult to get grapefruit from the USA although often there are none in the stores. What I want is local NZ grapefruit. They look like ugly fat oranges and taste very different. Anyway a guy at the fruit stand sent me into town and I found some.
This hitchhiker is going to Levin, he has been working on a pig farm (hmm should I have picked him up?) when he gets in I figure he is a German tourist because of his accent.... No. That is my ear not used to the NZ accent. I tell him I'm going to the festival so he suggests a route. I take it and end up not that far away but , "you can't get there from here" It is over the next road but I need to back to the highway to get there.
It turns out to be a wild goose chase. Camping is sold out and I am not encouraged to stick around. I feel old around all these young folks, families etc. Certainly there are some old guys like me but they look a little over the hill and I don't! Friday is a set up day/evening so lots of coming and going confusion, first I can't then a maybe. I walk around looking at the sights, dreads on heads on chins, bikinis and lots of small children. The usual arrays of cheap cottons from India, Indonesia and where ever else, jewelry, vegetarian food and coffee. Big signs on the approach NO ALCOHOL, YOU WILL BE SEARCHED etc. I have JUST purchased a12 pack of Tui, I have mead I purchased a couple weeks ago... I'm thinking "this is not going to work" The guys stop me at the gate , ask me if I have a ticket? No ? then go see info, park over there...
There is a beer garden! People are walking around with plastic cups full of the stuff. Organic beer, many varieties.
I check out the swimming hole at the river more kids, more bikinis, more dreads playing Djembes. Some of those gypsy wagons are here, all painted up surrounding really ancient looking trucks. I wander past the info tent and hear the fellow who gave me the maybe being quoted as saying "sorry no available camping tonight" The message seems clear. I am outa here.
I decide I need a dose of beach. The first one I come to is Kuku beach road, it goes on and on and on. Finally I come to the entrance. A Maori fellow is sitting there on his ATV. There is a sign indicating this is Maori tribal land, please respect it don't litter etc. I wave to the guy drive in and discover I am not going far and the beach is waay off in the distance beyond some running water and dunes and a swamp. I try the other road where this fellow is now parked. We turn off our respective engines. He notices right away I am not local, and suggests going to Otaki Beach further south since, "this is not a great beach" Then "I just got off work milking and I am going for a swim". After I have turned around, I emerge and he is conversing with a young woman in a red car, maybe they will go swim together? NOMB
Drive on to Otaki , buy some takeaway fish and chips with scallop,oyster and mussels YUM! Park at the end of the beach where all the fishermen are fishing. After eating I walk down to the river mouth where I speak with a couple of fishers. One couple has short rods, they are fishing for Mullet in the river mouth, everyone else has a rod at least 12' long casting out into the surf for ....? except for the two kayak fisher who are waay out there with two short rods each.
The sun sets beside Kapiti Island and I stop writing to take a few pictures. I am attacked (not really) by a swarm of little flies. Just annoying really. I hide in the van till they go away.
This is freedom camping, out on an isolated beach (no facilities) parked for the night.
The moon is up, bright as day in the night and in the morning it is an orange orb on the Norwestern horizon. Sleep seem unlikely as the fishermen start arriving, so I drive to the facilities, have some breakfast and do my writing.
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