Day 12

How frustrating! I spent a good hour late last night, not online writing my thoughts and experiences bringing it all up to date. Then this morning when I showed up here at the library in Kawakawa, I went online..poof all gone. If there is one thing I thought I had learned it was Assume nothing! Especially with this medium. Anyway there I was in the library Dagraville skyping with Elke (how nice it is to connect) trying hard not to disturb the woman behind me. When she got up to go I mentioned it and we went into a 20 min conversation. She was interested to know what I thought about her country, a student attending University in Hamilton, home for the holidays (isn't that a movie?). I described some experiences then showed her pictures... She recognized the spot I spent the night, her partners family are the folks in the corrugated iron cabins above the beach, oh right I hadn't got there yet. So I drive down this road along a river and come to the end. sorta. Someone in a bigger camper parked, not too friendly he was and beyond I can see an atv, 4wd and a collection of corrugated iron "buildings" definitely a camp of sorts, these folks have been coming here for years. Turns out someone actually lives there! One of my new acquaintance's relatives. Across the river another building with a flag on a pole, that's the picture she recognized. Anyway there was another road going up onto the hill behind, the gate was open and I thought why not? Drove past a fenced area with a picnic table, along a track with gates looking very sheep or cattle country. Around another corner and voila out onto a beautiful field overlooking the western vista, surf pounding below and two fishermen. At the far edge of the field was a van, a small trailer, door wide open and piles of stuff strewn around; mattresses, surf boards, a guitar, bags of unknowns, camping gear and no one to be seen. I wandered down the cliff stepping over the electric fence and slowly approached the first fisherman. he didn't appear glad to see me. He indicated his understanding was the land was private and I might get locked in. At that point his rod fell over and he began hauling in a fish whose name I didn't quite catch, his partner also brought one in and they allowed I might have brought them good luck. Back to fishing. I returned to the van, where now a woman and child had appeared. She said they were leaving and it wouldn't be appropriate for me to be there if they were not. Parked down below,went for an explore walking along the river to the mouth and the beach. Then back to eat the rest of my dinner and have a beer. Another van arrives, they say hello (!) and explore briefly returning to tell me they are parking up above, I join them due to some understanding of Neville's that the trust or something like that allows us to be there. As darkness falls, Ferg shows up and after some convincing by Neville backs off from booting us out since he is leaving in the morning and we will too. I awake to the sound of gentle rain in the night, followed closely by a lashing downpour, gale force winds and the van rocking violently. Luckily I parked below the crest of the hill. Finally quit around 6, so I did my breakfast, some writing and prepared to leave. The starter wheezes again and again bringing Neville out to investigate from his tiny tent with his Swiss friend Andrea on his heels. Eventually with their help rocking back and forth it catches and I AM OUTA THERE. Next stop the really big Kauri trees, the biggest and the widest. They call one of them Father of the Forest but to me they were both big mother trees, huge. Taking a picture just doesn't come close to portraying how massive they are. Went for a nice walk through the woods to see them and took lots of pictures. Onward, stopping to look at the carved bowls of 4500 year old Kauri, very nice, and dear. Some gum there as well, but nothing called my name.
Dagraville, the river is brown, turbid and unappealing. The town itself seems friendly, old buildings and a sense of heritage, cashing in on the tourists as much as is possible. I spent $20 doing the internet thing before figuring out I could do the library for free... wandered around in between attempting to get grounded and determine what my next step might be. Had a moment of upset when the phone mic wouldn't work, the payphone wouldn't accept coins or my credit card. I bought some time and made the call. Will visit Jean DeVries near Wellsford tonight. I was hungry so went for Chinese food... it was the worst I have ever experienced, it tasted UNchinese, tough and bland, I felt sorry for these folks, trying so hard. Weird it was.
Decided to work myself towards Kawakawa to see the toilets. Drove north from Tangowahine through some beautiful country following a river and turning east I came upon the mineral springs I had been reading about in my Lonely Planet Guidebook. I had not been able to locate them on the map, but here I was. $13 to visit the pools and spend the night, what a deal.

Day 11 already

The internet has been scarce and pricey lately so I am limiting my writing to public libraries! What a gift they are, I spent $20 uploading photos and checking mail earlier, had some food, messed with my inconsistent starter and located the library. Where have I been? On some amazing beaches let me tell you. The drive up the peninsula was easy, I am getting more comfortable with this RH driving although when the speedometer started dinging I kinda wondered "what next?" Apparently the van does not like to exceed 110 km an hour. Those one lane bridges are cute with the arrows on a sign indicating who has the right of way. The Gum diggers and the Giant Kauri displays did not call me, I chose instead to investigate Rarawa Beach, incredible white sand, I had to go back for my sunglasses. And went for my first swim, water refreshing not warm and not cold either. Drive on! Stopping to take pictures of the worlds purest silica sand dunes and ever onward toward the site of my pilgrimage Cape Reinga. And what an experience arriving there! I was unprepared for how I felt, awed and humbled by the majesty of ocean and land coming together. Far out I could see surf breaking as if the land, a reef perhaps, reaches miles out toward the north. Surf, beaches, headlands and way off in the distance the Three Kings. I walked around for a while and let go an offering that Marilyn had entrusted with me. Took way too many pictures and exposed my flesh to the sun, I thought I had it covered with sunscreen... I visited Taputaputa Bay in concert with 3 bus loads of folks. That could have been me, I am so glad I have the van. Walked around the corner back towards Cape Reinga but was stopped by the sea and an impassable headland. However it is possible to walk there, a trail connects. Actually this place NZ is covered with great "tracks" and plenty of "reserves"aka park. The historical signifigance of all these places is well documented adding a wonderful perspective to my adventure. Hmm, somehow that seems grammatically challenged. Anyway I chose to spend the night at Spirits Bay, parked among the other tourists all at a respectable distance. A fellow waves to me, first friendly greeting since Albany. Phil is from the UK living in Wellington and loving the place. He and Andrea found a wee hedgehog in the surf the day before and were feeding it shells full of milk. Walked the beach, collected a shell or two and marvelled at this pristine length of delicious sand stretching off to the east with nary a soul to be seen. Big surf, I tried a little body surfing and was speedily deposited on the beach! What a rush! Later as the sun set the young surfers emerged wandering way down the beach where apparently the best waves were. A few mosquitoes accompanied me to bed after a non cooked dinner. I neglected to get myself a stove, total fire ban here due to lack of rain. Eating lots of avocadoes.
Next morning the rowdies in the next site departed and I managed to get in another swim before I too left. After getting my hotwater (lemon,cayenne and ginger) I turned west to Hukatere driving through the Aupouri forest mostly Pine and some Gum (Eucalyptus) The ground covered in what looks like deep duff from the pine needles. 90 mile beach had people coming and going, some even stuck in the sand, all part of their adventure. Normally I would be tempting fate as well but it was somewhat foggy and besides what is there to do there? Drive? Fish? and surf I guess. Those waves looked a little bit challenging to me. How about 5 avacadoes for $2? YES!
Off to the museum in Kaitaia, learned about gum digging, local surfers from the 70's and Captain Cook. Lunch was a massive burger, they put soo much stuff in their burgers! Then I drove on a road that had me thinking of Doug and Connie, folks you gotta get down here and drive the Mangamuka Gorge wow, I took some pictures whilst driving normally a no no, little traffic so I went slow. Hairpins that went beyond belief around and around, down and down. The up side was probably just as winding but I was trying to stay on the road. Then up to the Kauri sanctuary 15k's of gravel and not a soul to be seen. The 6th largest Kauri in New Zealand (how about the planet folks). I realized the guide book was speaking about ANOTHER Kauri reserve so did a backtrack and headed across the ferry at Rangiora to Rawene ( now, is that pronounced raw weenie?) wandered the town, took about 15 minutes, bought mussels and fries takeaway. Sat and ate and messed with the phone, took pictures of the Dunes across Hokianga harbour at North head. I spotted a likely camping spot at Waimaku Beach and did spend the night there. The library is closing! I gotta go ! More to follow.