New Zealand smells: fragrant, spicy ,earthy, pungent, medicinal, sweet, ferny and of course like the ocean. My tramp Otaki Forks to the Otaki River in the Tararua Forest Park was another example of that richness. I am constantly amazed by the depth of scent in the air, how from the river up to the meadow the smells can change so dramatically. Perhaps I am noticing them so well because they are unfamiliar?
At the trail head there is a sign-in to state "intentions". I looked at it... and decided I was only going for a short walk, so why fill up the book with unimportant/trivial excursions? I do however heed the sign which indicates good walking shoes recommended.
Down the track to the river and over the suspension bridge. A sign indicates choices, I take the short "40" min choice to Otaki River. ( I thought this was the Otaki River?) Very pleasant walking up to a meadow/plateau/bench, they call it a "flat". Easy, although the sun is getting hot, another crossroads (crosstrails?) and I continue along the edge of the flat. Then into the bush along a narrow trail, roots etc. Out of the sun descending rapidly. I'm thinking (again) nobody knows where I am, what if?... I slip a bit and arrive at the river. What a beautiful spot for a swim! It doesn't take long to get hot again so off with the clothes and into the water. Yes, it was cold but I put up with that and did some strokes back and forth across the pool. The current was quite fierce and I ended up in a back eddy that had me swimming hard, but hey no worries. Dry off in the sun get dressed and head out to turn my ankle on the first step up the hill. Yow! Luckily for me I know how to fall (I have done so , sooo many times) and previous experience has shown walking on it works best. In other words, ignore it and move on.
Some hikers passing by take my picture, suddenly this is action central and a group of about 12 goes by loaded down with huge packs smiles on their faces.
On the way in I stopped, as the view was quite dramatic, to take a picture until I noticed someone behind me, so stop again well off the road. Somehow they don't really give the sense of being perched on an unstable cliff edge driving along a very narrow road.
Out the woods and back on the highway, I stop in Waikanae for fuel, me and the van. No wireless at the library, but I am able to plug in and charge while I type up the mornings adventures.
Saturday 30 January 2010
onward to Otaki Beach
Driving seems endless sometimes, I am amazed at how fast these folks drive, zipping past me and yet many hold back preferring to ride my tail for miles and miles until the passing lane appears. The motorcycles though are the worst, coming up out of nowhere and suddenly right beside me this shocking noise and then gone. One fellow passed me doing at least 120. A cop appears at the next intersection on the right, waiting to join the stream. Motorcycle goes by, I go by, the guy behind me goes by, the cop pulls in behind him and stops him for what, speeding? I am going just under the limit so he can't be going over... Duh.
I pick up a hitchhiker after buying some fruit in Foxton.
Did I tell you how hard it is to find grapefruit? Actually it is not that difficult to get grapefruit from the USA although often there are none in the stores. What I want is local NZ grapefruit. They look like ugly fat oranges and taste very different. Anyway a guy at the fruit stand sent me into town and I found some.
This hitchhiker is going to Levin, he has been working on a pig farm (hmm should I have picked him up?) when he gets in I figure he is a German tourist because of his accent.... No. That is my ear not used to the NZ accent. I tell him I'm going to the festival so he suggests a route. I take it and end up not that far away but , "you can't get there from here" It is over the next road but I need to back to the highway to get there.
It turns out to be a wild goose chase. Camping is sold out and I am not encouraged to stick around. I feel old around all these young folks, families etc. Certainly there are some old guys like me but they look a little over the hill and I don't! Friday is a set up day/evening so lots of coming and going confusion, first I can't then a maybe. I walk around looking at the sights, dreads on heads on chins, bikinis and lots of small children. The usual arrays of cheap cottons from India, Indonesia and where ever else, jewelry, vegetarian food and coffee. Big signs on the approach NO ALCOHOL, YOU WILL BE SEARCHED etc. I have JUST purchased a12 pack of Tui, I have mead I purchased a couple weeks ago... I'm thinking "this is not going to work" The guys stop me at the gate , ask me if I have a ticket? No ? then go see info, park over there...
There is a beer garden! People are walking around with plastic cups full of the stuff. Organic beer, many varieties.
I check out the swimming hole at the river more kids, more bikinis, more dreads playing Djembes. Some of those gypsy wagons are here, all painted up surrounding really ancient looking trucks. I wander past the info tent and hear the fellow who gave me the maybe being quoted as saying "sorry no available camping tonight" The message seems clear. I am outa here.
I decide I need a dose of beach. The first one I come to is Kuku beach road, it goes on and on and on. Finally I come to the entrance. A Maori fellow is sitting there on his ATV. There is a sign indicating this is Maori tribal land, please respect it don't litter etc. I wave to the guy drive in and discover I am not going far and the beach is waay off in the distance beyond some running water and dunes and a swamp. I try the other road where this fellow is now parked. We turn off our respective engines. He notices right away I am not local, and suggests going to Otaki Beach further south since, "this is not a great beach" Then "I just got off work milking and I am going for a swim". After I have turned around, I emerge and he is conversing with a young woman in a red car, maybe they will go swim together? NOMB
Drive on to Otaki , buy some takeaway fish and chips with scallop,oyster and mussels YUM! Park at the end of the beach where all the fishermen are fishing. After eating I walk down to the river mouth where I speak with a couple of fishers. One couple has short rods, they are fishing for Mullet in the river mouth, everyone else has a rod at least 12' long casting out into the surf for ....? except for the two kayak fisher who are waay out there with two short rods each.
The sun sets beside Kapiti Island and I stop writing to take a few pictures. I am attacked (not really) by a swarm of little flies. Just annoying really. I hide in the van till they go away.
This is freedom camping, out on an isolated beach (no facilities) parked for the night.
The moon is up, bright as day in the night and in the morning it is an orange orb on the Norwestern horizon. Sleep seem unlikely as the fishermen start arriving, so I drive to the facilities, have some breakfast and do my writing.
I pick up a hitchhiker after buying some fruit in Foxton.
Did I tell you how hard it is to find grapefruit? Actually it is not that difficult to get grapefruit from the USA although often there are none in the stores. What I want is local NZ grapefruit. They look like ugly fat oranges and taste very different. Anyway a guy at the fruit stand sent me into town and I found some.
This hitchhiker is going to Levin, he has been working on a pig farm (hmm should I have picked him up?) when he gets in I figure he is a German tourist because of his accent.... No. That is my ear not used to the NZ accent. I tell him I'm going to the festival so he suggests a route. I take it and end up not that far away but , "you can't get there from here" It is over the next road but I need to back to the highway to get there.
It turns out to be a wild goose chase. Camping is sold out and I am not encouraged to stick around. I feel old around all these young folks, families etc. Certainly there are some old guys like me but they look a little over the hill and I don't! Friday is a set up day/evening so lots of coming and going confusion, first I can't then a maybe. I walk around looking at the sights, dreads on heads on chins, bikinis and lots of small children. The usual arrays of cheap cottons from India, Indonesia and where ever else, jewelry, vegetarian food and coffee. Big signs on the approach NO ALCOHOL, YOU WILL BE SEARCHED etc. I have JUST purchased a12 pack of Tui, I have mead I purchased a couple weeks ago... I'm thinking "this is not going to work" The guys stop me at the gate , ask me if I have a ticket? No ? then go see info, park over there...
There is a beer garden! People are walking around with plastic cups full of the stuff. Organic beer, many varieties.
I check out the swimming hole at the river more kids, more bikinis, more dreads playing Djembes. Some of those gypsy wagons are here, all painted up surrounding really ancient looking trucks. I wander past the info tent and hear the fellow who gave me the maybe being quoted as saying "sorry no available camping tonight" The message seems clear. I am outa here.
I decide I need a dose of beach. The first one I come to is Kuku beach road, it goes on and on and on. Finally I come to the entrance. A Maori fellow is sitting there on his ATV. There is a sign indicating this is Maori tribal land, please respect it don't litter etc. I wave to the guy drive in and discover I am not going far and the beach is waay off in the distance beyond some running water and dunes and a swamp. I try the other road where this fellow is now parked. We turn off our respective engines. He notices right away I am not local, and suggests going to Otaki Beach further south since, "this is not a great beach" Then "I just got off work milking and I am going for a swim". After I have turned around, I emerge and he is conversing with a young woman in a red car, maybe they will go swim together? NOMB
Drive on to Otaki , buy some takeaway fish and chips with scallop,oyster and mussels YUM! Park at the end of the beach where all the fishermen are fishing. After eating I walk down to the river mouth where I speak with a couple of fishers. One couple has short rods, they are fishing for Mullet in the river mouth, everyone else has a rod at least 12' long casting out into the surf for ....? except for the two kayak fisher who are waay out there with two short rods each.
The sun sets beside Kapiti Island and I stop writing to take a few pictures. I am attacked (not really) by a swarm of little flies. Just annoying really. I hide in the van till they go away.
This is freedom camping, out on an isolated beach (no facilities) parked for the night.
The moon is up, bright as day in the night and in the morning it is an orange orb on the Norwestern horizon. Sleep seem unlikely as the fishermen start arriving, so I drive to the facilities, have some breakfast and do my writing.
Friday 29 January 2010
Kaupokonui Beach
Driving along the surf highway is great, except you don't see the surf! Every other road it seems leads to a surf beach, 3km or more. I felt the need to make some mileage (kilometerage?) and proceeded past. Wasn't sure I could trust the old guys memory but I found it, after backtracking cause the sign faces the other way! sign on the door says "park anywhere. I will find you in the morning. $10 to camp"
I walk along the black sand beach without my hat, I didn't even think of what might happen to my ears... Tranquility with pounding surf and a couple of Maori fellows here for a swim. We sit and they make jokes about just about everything, they are quite friendly and we shoot the breeze till they go threatening to return with beer. Unlikely. I go make some dinner and stand at the microwave with the laptop on it typing away till it is dark outside. Have a beer myself sitting at a picnic table overlooking the river mouth while the golden light fades over the Tasman Sea.
Morning comes and Taranaki is still visible so I snap another, walk down on this side of the river to survey the remains of the fishermen's detritus. Why is it folks will haul in full bottles but can't be bothered to remove the empties? When I took the sunset pictures, they were still down there casting into the rising tide.
When it came time to leave brush teeth etc, I discovered the shampoo bottle had opened up and everything was yuck. Clean-up and then on the road again. Lucky for me my kit is so small. No phone service till I got back up on the highway. I call the hostel hoping to catch Ben before he leaves to thank him for the tip. I spent too much time dawdling on the beach.
On the way to Wanganui I saw a homemade gypsy wagon and another couple on arrival here. Check out Gypsy Fair NZ. Unfortunately I will be on the South Island. Sounds like a very cool event.
Next stop Levin and the Organic River Festival.
I walk along the black sand beach without my hat, I didn't even think of what might happen to my ears... Tranquility with pounding surf and a couple of Maori fellows here for a swim. We sit and they make jokes about just about everything, they are quite friendly and we shoot the breeze till they go threatening to return with beer. Unlikely. I go make some dinner and stand at the microwave with the laptop on it typing away till it is dark outside. Have a beer myself sitting at a picnic table overlooking the river mouth while the golden light fades over the Tasman Sea.
Morning comes and Taranaki is still visible so I snap another, walk down on this side of the river to survey the remains of the fishermen's detritus. Why is it folks will haul in full bottles but can't be bothered to remove the empties? When I took the sunset pictures, they were still down there casting into the rising tide.
When it came time to leave brush teeth etc, I discovered the shampoo bottle had opened up and everything was yuck. Clean-up and then on the road again. Lucky for me my kit is so small. No phone service till I got back up on the highway. I call the hostel hoping to catch Ben before he leaves to thank him for the tip. I spent too much time dawdling on the beach.
On the way to Wanganui I saw a homemade gypsy wagon and another couple on arrival here. Check out Gypsy Fair NZ. Unfortunately I will be on the South Island. Sounds like a very cool event.
Next stop Levin and the Organic River Festival.
Kayaking Sugar Loaf Island Marine Park
After a very poor sleep, anticipating walking up in time to get to the kayak place. (which is such a joke. I wake up at 6am whether I want to or not!) I sat in the dining area and chatted with some folks from Christchurch and a German tramper. She is doing as many walks as seems possible and dearly wants to scale Taranaki. Not much point when it is cloudy which it has been for days. The South Islanders give me some distance times and recommend the glaciers.
Off to the kayak place, I scoped it out yesterday so I knew where to go. The fellow there puts roof racks on the van and loads this very light polycarbonate .... the name MAY come to me. spray skirt PFD (life vest, I think) paddle,paddle float a dn a dry bag for the camera and cell phone. he assures me if I get into trouble "some fisherman will help" hmm.
The launch point is on the otherside of town, not far from where I just came from, at the port. i carry it down to the beach and fall in trying to enter. I told the guy my Prijon is a bit "twitchy" so he gives a boat with a round bottom. Oh well nothing hurt but a bit of pride. I do my usual stretching, twist to the right, the left and tilt the hips both ways and I am off. I find it doesn't track well so reach around to flip the rudder down... Paddle back to shore and unhook the bungie.
Smooth sailing around the breakwater, a large seal is scratching his/her mouth with front flippers and erratically swimming past me. Doesn't even look up! these are big animals. They make our harbour seals look like big otters. Two huge freighters (aren't they all huge?) leave right behind me. I feel small!
Out to the big Sugar Loaf and around wide. I am feeling cautious, not used to the boat but regretting the camera is stowed in the forward hatch, a little unsure of the wave action which is quite begnign really. Almost flat calm with swells. Those swells are crashing against the less than friendly looking rocky island. Definitely nowhere to land. The reflected waves, known as clapiotis are mostly unpredictable unless you know the place well. I skirt the giant surf crashing over the unexposed reefs (the tide is falling) and circle around most of the islands, cutting through between the outermost which has extensive crashing surf on the outer edge. I head for the shore , I need to pee and I could use a break from sitting, it is hot, I'm tired, hungry and thirsty. gee somehow that whining just doesn't translate well.
As I approach I can see these little sticks on the beach moving back and forth. Hmmm? Closer I can see they are actually people , some with surf boards. That nice looking surf break from this side looks gentle. Reality check, those folks are surfing! I carry on looking for somewhere with non existant surf. Seems unlikely I will find a spot to land. I see folks swimming , girls in bikinis! Hey! Not possible to land there, around a corner though and one of the Islands has a lee shore and I slide right onto the beach. I take off most of my clothes and swim into those huge waves, body surfing towards shore. I get a smile from her.
Take a few pictures and decide I like my camera too much to risk losing it. Back in the bag in the hatch. Launching successfully I paddle back out to the big island. More confident I get in close to see the rocks, seals and blackback gulls. The island is really an enormous rock, pounded by the ocean on most sides. Where there is a cave or opening the waves make a huge drumlike boom as they smack the back face spraying up like a geyser. The rock itself seems rotten or unstable, great chunks have fallen out leaving large openings like amphitheatres, on top is bush and on one side sandstone carved out like in the gulf islands, big and little holes.
There ARE fishermen out here. Boats keep buzzing in from way out at sea and little putputs trolling around. A long passenger boat coloured up like a circus tent cruises by, I can hear someone with loudhailer waxing elequent I am sure, about the geology and biology of the place.
When I was leaving the kayak hire guy said I should text him if decided to go somewhere else after. And where would that be? I had a good time, quality trumps quantity for me. So I paddled back around the breakwater (which by the way is made of gigantic concrete legolike chunks tumbled together willy nilly), tide now way out, tons of kids frolicking in the waves and digging holes in/on the beach. The van is like an oven, thank goodness I left my food back at the hostel. Deliver the kayak and stop at the library to catch up on my blogging. Elke is good, she catches me most times. Of course we are not allowed to talk in the library. So we text, while viewing each other on Skype.
Time flies when there is lots to say/write and sometimes I need to step away from the screen....
Collected my food/ice and said my goodbyes. I was tempted to stay another night, that might have turned into a week! Anyway Ben had some advice. Stop at Kaupokanui Beach, cheap, showers and great beach. And that was so true.
Off to the kayak place, I scoped it out yesterday so I knew where to go. The fellow there puts roof racks on the van and loads this very light polycarbonate .... the name MAY come to me. spray skirt PFD (life vest, I think) paddle,paddle float a dn a dry bag for the camera and cell phone. he assures me if I get into trouble "some fisherman will help" hmm.
The launch point is on the otherside of town, not far from where I just came from, at the port. i carry it down to the beach and fall in trying to enter. I told the guy my Prijon is a bit "twitchy" so he gives a boat with a round bottom. Oh well nothing hurt but a bit of pride. I do my usual stretching, twist to the right, the left and tilt the hips both ways and I am off. I find it doesn't track well so reach around to flip the rudder down... Paddle back to shore and unhook the bungie.
Smooth sailing around the breakwater, a large seal is scratching his/her mouth with front flippers and erratically swimming past me. Doesn't even look up! these are big animals. They make our harbour seals look like big otters. Two huge freighters (aren't they all huge?) leave right behind me. I feel small!
Out to the big Sugar Loaf and around wide. I am feeling cautious, not used to the boat but regretting the camera is stowed in the forward hatch, a little unsure of the wave action which is quite begnign really. Almost flat calm with swells. Those swells are crashing against the less than friendly looking rocky island. Definitely nowhere to land. The reflected waves, known as clapiotis are mostly unpredictable unless you know the place well. I skirt the giant surf crashing over the unexposed reefs (the tide is falling) and circle around most of the islands, cutting through between the outermost which has extensive crashing surf on the outer edge. I head for the shore , I need to pee and I could use a break from sitting, it is hot, I'm tired, hungry and thirsty. gee somehow that whining just doesn't translate well.
As I approach I can see these little sticks on the beach moving back and forth. Hmmm? Closer I can see they are actually people , some with surf boards. That nice looking surf break from this side looks gentle. Reality check, those folks are surfing! I carry on looking for somewhere with non existant surf. Seems unlikely I will find a spot to land. I see folks swimming , girls in bikinis! Hey! Not possible to land there, around a corner though and one of the Islands has a lee shore and I slide right onto the beach. I take off most of my clothes and swim into those huge waves, body surfing towards shore. I get a smile from her.
Take a few pictures and decide I like my camera too much to risk losing it. Back in the bag in the hatch. Launching successfully I paddle back out to the big island. More confident I get in close to see the rocks, seals and blackback gulls. The island is really an enormous rock, pounded by the ocean on most sides. Where there is a cave or opening the waves make a huge drumlike boom as they smack the back face spraying up like a geyser. The rock itself seems rotten or unstable, great chunks have fallen out leaving large openings like amphitheatres, on top is bush and on one side sandstone carved out like in the gulf islands, big and little holes.
There ARE fishermen out here. Boats keep buzzing in from way out at sea and little putputs trolling around. A long passenger boat coloured up like a circus tent cruises by, I can hear someone with loudhailer waxing elequent I am sure, about the geology and biology of the place.
When I was leaving the kayak hire guy said I should text him if decided to go somewhere else after. And where would that be? I had a good time, quality trumps quantity for me. So I paddled back around the breakwater (which by the way is made of gigantic concrete legolike chunks tumbled together willy nilly), tide now way out, tons of kids frolicking in the waves and digging holes in/on the beach. The van is like an oven, thank goodness I left my food back at the hostel. Deliver the kayak and stop at the library to catch up on my blogging. Elke is good, she catches me most times. Of course we are not allowed to talk in the library. So we text, while viewing each other on Skype.
Time flies when there is lots to say/write and sometimes I need to step away from the screen....
Collected my food/ice and said my goodbyes. I was tempted to stay another night, that might have turned into a week! Anyway Ben had some advice. Stop at Kaupokanui Beach, cheap, showers and great beach. And that was so true.
Thursday 28 January 2010
New Plymouth and Pukeiti
It was nice to take some time and not rush off. Hanging out, went downtown with Ben an exsurfer from Sheffield, he's been kicking around off and on for years, tells great stories about these amazing camps he's been to here and in Auz. A beach near the coral reef, world class windsurfers, fishing , fishing. Oh and in Canada too, building a cabin south of Jasper, flyfishing and pulling in masses of trout. I couldn't begin to repeat his descriptions or the slang he uses. Bollocks! He took a board keel on the front of his skull, a "hard core fin chop" had a stroke while they was savin him and walks with a limp on the left. Truly a character.
The info sites are great for helping out travelers, I booked a kayak trip for tomorrow out to the Sugarloaf Islands in the morning before the "gnarly" surf comes up. Ben , he rebooked his flight for an earlier date... running out of money... We did a little shopping then had the ubiquitous meat pie for lunch. I headed off to Pukeiti Gardens about 20 k towards Mt. Taranaki. Looking at the map Taranaki is the central focus of just about everything here, even the surfers pay homage. At the info site there are dioramas and multi-media presentations describing the history and geology of the area and the mountain itself. An evening event here at the hostel is the slicing up a cake in the shape of Mt. Egmont (guess who called it that!) One slice per. If you climb it a flag of your country is placed into the icing...
The road to Pukeiti is like most of the roads, narrow and windy, lots of sharp turns and one lane bridges. Along the way I spied a black volks bug festooned in sequins (something shiny? "brilliant") suspended on tubular metal legs. I so wanted to take a picture! But no where to pull over, so on and on. I figured to snap one on the return.
The garden is quite beautiful, this is not the season for the best show, but there were flowers. I walked along the "river" to catch some shade, it was smokin hot. The ferns are quite impressive, some with a texture like leather, the photos don't come close. I was the only visitor wandering around the 20+ acre grounds. Huge Rhodos, fancy Hydrangeas, and some identification of the native species which I found quite helpful.
After wandering for an hour and a half I headed back. The volks was gone! The legs lying loose on the lawn. Bummer dude.
Ben and I made dinner together "mighty fine tucker it was too" as more backpackers arrived, some for the dorms, some staying in the motel section, mostly folks from New Zealand. Some from Germany and I didn't catch where else.
The mossies are out, time to close down.
The info sites are great for helping out travelers, I booked a kayak trip for tomorrow out to the Sugarloaf Islands in the morning before the "gnarly" surf comes up. Ben , he rebooked his flight for an earlier date... running out of money... We did a little shopping then had the ubiquitous meat pie for lunch. I headed off to Pukeiti Gardens about 20 k towards Mt. Taranaki. Looking at the map Taranaki is the central focus of just about everything here, even the surfers pay homage. At the info site there are dioramas and multi-media presentations describing the history and geology of the area and the mountain itself. An evening event here at the hostel is the slicing up a cake in the shape of Mt. Egmont (guess who called it that!) One slice per. If you climb it a flag of your country is placed into the icing...
The road to Pukeiti is like most of the roads, narrow and windy, lots of sharp turns and one lane bridges. Along the way I spied a black volks bug festooned in sequins (something shiny? "brilliant") suspended on tubular metal legs. I so wanted to take a picture! But no where to pull over, so on and on. I figured to snap one on the return.
The garden is quite beautiful, this is not the season for the best show, but there were flowers. I walked along the "river" to catch some shade, it was smokin hot. The ferns are quite impressive, some with a texture like leather, the photos don't come close. I was the only visitor wandering around the 20+ acre grounds. Huge Rhodos, fancy Hydrangeas, and some identification of the native species which I found quite helpful.
After wandering for an hour and a half I headed back. The volks was gone! The legs lying loose on the lawn. Bummer dude.
Ben and I made dinner together "mighty fine tucker it was too" as more backpackers arrived, some for the dorms, some staying in the motel section, mostly folks from New Zealand. Some from Germany and I didn't catch where else.
The mossies are out, time to close down.
Tuesday 26 January 2010
Driving the Forgotten Highway was great, lots of sheep! And vistas that fell away for miles with hills like the mountains I used to draw as a child, rounded but steep. The sheep are everywhere (this is New Zealand right?) dotted on the hillsides, packed together against fences, standing still when it is raining really hard. I find it hard to capture the grandness of it all in one photo. I take pieces of the landscape and stitch it together like a crazy quilt, a cliff face here, a river gorge, hills and valleys. At one point a couple of the campers from last night were stopped beside the road, someone had draped close to a dozen boar hides on the fence, a hoof on the fence post.
I am a sucker for waterfalls and turned down an 18 km road to visit Uruha Falls, definitely lacking in signage, I trusted my instincts to find it and did. There were a couple from LA looking for the Heritage Poles from a previous Maori settlement but they lost interest when we could not determine which track to follow. I took one that seemed likely and had a little adventure, on my return I found the actual trail which we had both walked right past.
This road has heritage all over it , almost every junction has a sign indicating something way down there if you care to go check it out. The signs though are so old they have lichen growing on them, at home it takes 10 years or so, here maybe 3, but this road has been here a long time. One could spend three months exploring this area alone, folowing the signs and tracks that seem to completely cover the place, oh in between sheep stations.
Not much roadkill today, I am keeping a bit of a tally, so far mostly possums, hedgehogs and a variety of birds, I have feathers from many of them. The goat was a surprise, it is wild to see them clustered on the hillsides with the sheep, obvious in their black and brown hides.
The library in Staford has kindly accommodated my blogging today, time to move on toward the coast and New Plymouth.
I am a sucker for waterfalls and turned down an 18 km road to visit Uruha Falls, definitely lacking in signage, I trusted my instincts to find it and did. There were a couple from LA looking for the Heritage Poles from a previous Maori settlement but they lost interest when we could not determine which track to follow. I took one that seemed likely and had a little adventure, on my return I found the actual trail which we had both walked right past.
This road has heritage all over it , almost every junction has a sign indicating something way down there if you care to go check it out. The signs though are so old they have lichen growing on them, at home it takes 10 years or so, here maybe 3, but this road has been here a long time. One could spend three months exploring this area alone, folowing the signs and tracks that seem to completely cover the place, oh in between sheep stations.
Not much roadkill today, I am keeping a bit of a tally, so far mostly possums, hedgehogs and a variety of birds, I have feathers from many of them. The goat was a surprise, it is wild to see them clustered on the hillsides with the sheep, obvious in their black and brown hides.
The library in Staford has kindly accommodated my blogging today, time to move on toward the coast and New Plymouth.
Saturday 23 January 2010
Ongaruru Bay Sunrise to Bay View (Hawkes Bay)
Red sky in the morning, travellers take warning? In half an hour most of the cloud overhead had burned off, although on the horizon were piles of cumulonimbus threatening... A trip back to town to the toilet(!) and a couple of pictures, the old boarded up banks seem to carry a feeling of despair or abandonment.The sun shines softly across the hillsides. They look like corduroy as if some ancient civilization had terraced the entire place. I wondered if it was slippage with so many animals wandering across for generations. The light was perfect for highlighting the contour. And sheep, sheep everywhere. The sun rose higher, the day got warmer and the next beach, Waihua, had me swimming and sunning. Lots of freedom campers, the children were in the surf attempting to surf on their little boogie boards, dad watching while dogs frolicked all around. Around another headland and the beaches of Gisborne, endless surf and surfers, fishermen and lots of families camped at the side of the road like strip villages.
Gisborne itself is a fairly decent sized place, a river runs through it (hmm) and being Sunday not much was open. I got on the net, their computer, $5 an hour at the Infocentre. Out front a "Canadian" totem pole (no credit to the carver) presented to the community by the Canadian Gov't a few years ago. This internet thing is a bit of a challenge. On the one hand it is a great way to stay in touch keep you all informed and provide me with a decent record of my journey. On the other, it becomes a compulsive effort to keep up, in affect an interruption (sometimes) to the flow of the day. I get a bit wired by it .
Pulled off the road to harvest some peaches, yum, ripe and juicy. Took a short road to the mouth of the river and regarded Young Nick's Head or Te Kuri across Poverty Bay ( Cook had quite an ethnocentric viewpoint) Continuing on past Mohaka the road goes inland into Whareata State forest where logging the Pines is very much in progress. The straight rows of the recently planted look cute across the hillsides. At Nuhaka I turned left and drove out onto the Mahia Penninsula. Out to Mahia beach, a dramatic backdrop of immense cliffs and a sweeping white sand beach make this a destination worth visiting. The sand on the beach is a mixture separated by gravity and seems to be particles of clay and pumice. It looks like ground down kitty litter. It is cool to walk on while the sand is smokin hot! I couldn't resist jumping in and body surfing in those relentless waves. Surfers sitting out on their boards , waiting for the perfect one... heading back I noticed and recorded how the road seems to have a tenuous existence here, the land is eroding dramatically.
The next leg of the journey took me through some steep and challenging river gorges, the road literally carved into the cliff with hairpins and deep descents, much like Alison Pass in Manning Park. This road is narrower and the pines are green. These words do not begin to describe what it was like hurtling down (and up) this narrow road, transports, tourists and locals impatiently waiting to pass me and each other, with very few opportunities. At one point I came around a corner and there above me at the top of a hill, headstones! A cemetery seemingly in the middle of nowhere. On the map part of this road is called Devils Elbow, I can relate! I felt squeezed, hot in the sun and somewhat frustrated. After an hour or so of that I needed a break.
The Tangoio Falls Scenic Reserve takes one up a steep incline on an obvious labour of love trail to a couple of sweet waterfalls through native bush. I got good and muddy, but it was great to be in the shade listening to the birds, cicadas (?) and the rushing streams.
Westshore Napier: Internet at this campground $10 for 24hrs! Been at it awhile. Time to do some traveling.
Gisborne itself is a fairly decent sized place, a river runs through it (hmm) and being Sunday not much was open. I got on the net, their computer, $5 an hour at the Infocentre. Out front a "Canadian" totem pole (no credit to the carver) presented to the community by the Canadian Gov't a few years ago. This internet thing is a bit of a challenge. On the one hand it is a great way to stay in touch keep you all informed and provide me with a decent record of my journey. On the other, it becomes a compulsive effort to keep up, in affect an interruption (sometimes) to the flow of the day. I get a bit wired by it .
Pulled off the road to harvest some peaches, yum, ripe and juicy. Took a short road to the mouth of the river and regarded Young Nick's Head or Te Kuri across Poverty Bay ( Cook had quite an ethnocentric viewpoint) Continuing on past Mohaka the road goes inland into Whareata State forest where logging the Pines is very much in progress. The straight rows of the recently planted look cute across the hillsides. At Nuhaka I turned left and drove out onto the Mahia Penninsula. Out to Mahia beach, a dramatic backdrop of immense cliffs and a sweeping white sand beach make this a destination worth visiting. The sand on the beach is a mixture separated by gravity and seems to be particles of clay and pumice. It looks like ground down kitty litter. It is cool to walk on while the sand is smokin hot! I couldn't resist jumping in and body surfing in those relentless waves. Surfers sitting out on their boards , waiting for the perfect one... heading back I noticed and recorded how the road seems to have a tenuous existence here, the land is eroding dramatically.
The next leg of the journey took me through some steep and challenging river gorges, the road literally carved into the cliff with hairpins and deep descents, much like Alison Pass in Manning Park. This road is narrower and the pines are green. These words do not begin to describe what it was like hurtling down (and up) this narrow road, transports, tourists and locals impatiently waiting to pass me and each other, with very few opportunities. At one point I came around a corner and there above me at the top of a hill, headstones! A cemetery seemingly in the middle of nowhere. On the map part of this road is called Devils Elbow, I can relate! I felt squeezed, hot in the sun and somewhat frustrated. After an hour or so of that I needed a break.
The Tangoio Falls Scenic Reserve takes one up a steep incline on an obvious labour of love trail to a couple of sweet waterfalls through native bush. I got good and muddy, but it was great to be in the shade listening to the birds, cicadas (?) and the rushing streams.
Westshore Napier: Internet at this campground $10 for 24hrs! Been at it awhile. Time to do some traveling.
Whakatane, Opotiki, the Cape to Tokomura Bay
Whakatane is quite a town, extraordinary physical features, the river mouth has a large rock with a sculpture on it and some wicked waves. Downtown a huge sacred rock outcrop, the Pohaturoa, covered in Puhutukawahs and various other native vegetation commemorates a Maori chief and was the site of baptisms and other rites. I drove up Seaview Rd, steep and narrow, stopped at a lookout and took pictures in the rain. Oh did I say it was raining? Yikes! Thunder and lightening, huge drops and waves of torrential downpouring, all day. I have pictures to prove it. The place has charm for sure and is a big tourist destination, I watched 3 large cruisers returning from White Island (New Zealand's most active volcano), likely all full of sightseers.
Amazing how a day can go by without accomplishing much... Continuing east I stopped at Ohope and Kutarere. I met a fellow from Cedar a couple years ago Greg I think, and he told me about his farm, Macadamia nut orchard, avocados and citrus, it (among others) inspired me to make this journey. I went looking and I think I found it.
Still raining and overcast so my pictures are grey. Saw another Harrier, I have seen many of these hawklike birds soaring around the country and at the side of the road standing over some bit of fresh carrion. Quite impressive. When I stopped it took off of course. Massive rollers on the beaches, a tropical storm may be affecting them and is the likely cause of all this unseasonal rain. The surfers are happy. I spent the night at Opotiki then in the morning I head east towards the "first place the sun shines" East Cape, the most easterly light house in NZ.
First though, I attempted to do the library, not open till 10... "On the road again" heading east I stopped at so many lookouts, vistas and amazing beaches snapping picture after picture. As per a request (I do occasionally take requests) I had my photo taken at a lookout, by one of 4 women doing the Cape drive. They said "see you later", but seems unlikely since I seem to stop about every 10 minutes to capture yet another stunning view.
A mite peckish this morning, the sun helped lift my mood and I finished off a chocolate bar. Each new corner another fabulous vista. I saw a place I think I could live at, such a comfortable feeling, great beach, nicely arable land and the mountains in the background (mind you it all seems to look like this!) I stopped at small bay where a fellow was setting up his 3 kids to go fish, practice in the stream for the challenge of casting into the surf when they are bigger. Neat little coves and Backpacker signs everywhere. It means (I think) a place where backpackers might want to stay. As I got closer and closer to the cape the grandeur of the occasion never diminished. In fact with the road as narrow as it was it became quite an adventure crawling the 20 km around the cliffside into the valley behind and below the light house. Fields of GMO maize to feed their livestock, all the same colour, height and I assume variety. But what a view from up there! Blue sky, clouds and the vast ocean stretching all the way to North and South America, the South Island and Australia. Not visible of course, just endless waves, breakers crashing onto East Island and up and down both coastlines. Another picture from a fellow tourist, this one from Austria.
Onward, no camping at the light house or environs so no catching the first sun rays of the day before anyone else.
Around the corner I go heading more southerly towards Tikitiki and Whakawhitira where two pigs sauntered across the road. Luckily I had warning and caught them walking past the van up a track to home I suppose.
I took a secondary road to Wapiro Bay, then at Tokomaru Bay drove right to the end of the road, Waima, where an Ice plant used to be. The town has never been the same. A huge long pier for loading and lots of very old brick buildings and not much else except a huge cliff with "slips" or landslide/cave ins. None of the accomodation appealed to me so I set up above the beach at a Freedom Campsite, permit required (I had none) chatted with a fellow walking down the beach , read, ate, had a beer and went to sleep to the roar of the surf.
Amazing how a day can go by without accomplishing much... Continuing east I stopped at Ohope and Kutarere. I met a fellow from Cedar a couple years ago Greg I think, and he told me about his farm, Macadamia nut orchard, avocados and citrus, it (among others) inspired me to make this journey. I went looking and I think I found it.
Still raining and overcast so my pictures are grey. Saw another Harrier, I have seen many of these hawklike birds soaring around the country and at the side of the road standing over some bit of fresh carrion. Quite impressive. When I stopped it took off of course. Massive rollers on the beaches, a tropical storm may be affecting them and is the likely cause of all this unseasonal rain. The surfers are happy. I spent the night at Opotiki then in the morning I head east towards the "first place the sun shines" East Cape, the most easterly light house in NZ.
First though, I attempted to do the library, not open till 10... "On the road again" heading east I stopped at so many lookouts, vistas and amazing beaches snapping picture after picture. As per a request (I do occasionally take requests) I had my photo taken at a lookout, by one of 4 women doing the Cape drive. They said "see you later", but seems unlikely since I seem to stop about every 10 minutes to capture yet another stunning view.
A mite peckish this morning, the sun helped lift my mood and I finished off a chocolate bar. Each new corner another fabulous vista. I saw a place I think I could live at, such a comfortable feeling, great beach, nicely arable land and the mountains in the background (mind you it all seems to look like this!) I stopped at small bay where a fellow was setting up his 3 kids to go fish, practice in the stream for the challenge of casting into the surf when they are bigger. Neat little coves and Backpacker signs everywhere. It means (I think) a place where backpackers might want to stay. As I got closer and closer to the cape the grandeur of the occasion never diminished. In fact with the road as narrow as it was it became quite an adventure crawling the 20 km around the cliffside into the valley behind and below the light house. Fields of GMO maize to feed their livestock, all the same colour, height and I assume variety. But what a view from up there! Blue sky, clouds and the vast ocean stretching all the way to North and South America, the South Island and Australia. Not visible of course, just endless waves, breakers crashing onto East Island and up and down both coastlines. Another picture from a fellow tourist, this one from Austria.
Onward, no camping at the light house or environs so no catching the first sun rays of the day before anyone else.
Around the corner I go heading more southerly towards Tikitiki and Whakawhitira where two pigs sauntered across the road. Luckily I had warning and caught them walking past the van up a track to home I suppose.
I took a secondary road to Wapiro Bay, then at Tokomaru Bay drove right to the end of the road, Waima, where an Ice plant used to be. The town has never been the same. A huge long pier for loading and lots of very old brick buildings and not much else except a huge cliff with "slips" or landslide/cave ins. None of the accomodation appealed to me so I set up above the beach at a Freedom Campsite, permit required (I had none) chatted with a fellow walking down the beach , read, ate, had a beer and went to sleep to the roar of the surf.
Friday 22 January 2010
Mt. Maurangi south to Whakatane
Wow! raining again and with major vigour. Am I glad to be inside the info centre at Whakatane! Some false starts in the internet experience, the library in Rotorua wanted $2. Ok , I can handle that, BUT unfriendly to Macs. Unable to get in. Next door at the info centre selling 30 min cards for $3 I managed to squeeze in 2 hours, what with loading pictures and writing the blog off and online. I finally bought a cooler, known here as a chiller. What a difference! Ice lasts for a days now, instead of daily replacement. Yes, really, a no brainer.
I attempted to visit the Wingspan Birds of Prey Centre http://www.wingspan.co.nz/ arriving at closing... Proceeded on around the lake to the north and drove on through rain to Tauranga and Mt. Mauganui. Awesome beaches woah! Surf heaven I am sure. Lots of surf schools and many, many individuals waiting in the waves. I watched awhile, they seem to spend more time waiting then riding. Mind you at 8 am I was impressed to see so many already out there.
Back to yesterday, I found a campground, a "motorcourt", almost to Papamoa and walked out into the dunes across the road. Onto the beach the wind was howling, no one seemed to bothered, although there weren't many on the beach. Sitting in the lee of the dunes was fairly pleasant speaking with my Elke, catching up.
Awoke to, you guessed it, torrential rain again. It did quit and I went for a walk out onto Moturiki Island looking for the Blow hole....
Cruised around town, visiting second hand shops looking for a frypan and the library. $4 an hour on their computers... time to move on.
Driving south? East really, stopped to photograph some sandstone cliffs and the big surf. Bought fresh blueberries, but having trouble getting my daily grapefruit, and when I do they are orange inside. Ah the sun is out, the streets are wet and I'm ready to walk around Whakatane.
I attempted to visit the Wingspan Birds of Prey Centre http://www.wingspan.co.nz/ arriving at closing... Proceeded on around the lake to the north and drove on through rain to Tauranga and Mt. Mauganui. Awesome beaches woah! Surf heaven I am sure. Lots of surf schools and many, many individuals waiting in the waves. I watched awhile, they seem to spend more time waiting then riding. Mind you at 8 am I was impressed to see so many already out there.
Back to yesterday, I found a campground, a "motorcourt", almost to Papamoa and walked out into the dunes across the road. Onto the beach the wind was howling, no one seemed to bothered, although there weren't many on the beach. Sitting in the lee of the dunes was fairly pleasant speaking with my Elke, catching up.
Awoke to, you guessed it, torrential rain again. It did quit and I went for a walk out onto Moturiki Island looking for the Blow hole....
Cruised around town, visiting second hand shops looking for a frypan and the library. $4 an hour on their computers... time to move on.
Driving south? East really, stopped to photograph some sandstone cliffs and the big surf. Bought fresh blueberries, but having trouble getting my daily grapefruit, and when I do they are orange inside. Ah the sun is out, the streets are wet and I'm ready to walk around Whakatane.
Rotorua
Rotorua, Hotsprings and steaming vents all around. The Te Paui was the "event/place" that sounded the most fulfilling. I arrived with a few minutes to spare so wandered briefly, taking a few pictures. I loved the boulder of nephryte/jade out front and the invitation to take some of the water and pour it over the rock, rubbing it in as a reminder/blessings of the earthly connection.I should have taken notes. It was surrounded by 12 poles with carvings representing the 12 gods/heavens of Maori belief. A brief history of Maori arrival on Aotearoa "land of the long white cloud" and mention of Captain Cook and his perspective(from a Maori perspective) This place is set up a a school/training for Maori in the arts,crafts and history of Maori settlement. Out beyond the geyser (rhymes with miser not geezer) the Maori had fortification a 'Pa' the terrain is well suited for it. Apparently on occasion the captives (headless) were thrown into the boiling mud pools to discourage misbehavior or similar actions. Nearby are some pools where food is still cooked in the traditional way inside woven baskets and immersed till done. We were shown the woodcarving area and a weaving studio where I saw a short demo on preparing the native flax using an exacto knife and a mussel shell. How's that for mixed media. The gift shop had stuff, books I had seen numerous other places much cheaper... oh well, think I will save my money. Then the major event began, with a traditional greeting outside the Marea: horn blowing and singing, lots of posturing and the handshake nose rub. Off go the shoes and in we went to receive the blessings of the tribe in splendour and ceremony. A lot more elaborate than the previous experince up at Waitangi. Afterwards a huge meal ; eel, mussels , oysters, chicken,pork potato, sweet potato and pumpkin cooked in steaming pits. Oh salad and dessert too. The woman next to me had about 4 helpings of oysters, I began to wonder .... I kept my thoughts to myself. Unfortunately it wasn't quite dark so the geyser wasn't all that spectacular in the lights. I walked around taking pictures of the sulphur deposits, the glowing red rocks and the steam rising over everything.
I managed to find a campground and bonus, they had hotpools so had a good soak before I lay my weary (full tummied ) body down for a good nights sleep. What is it with the rain? Folowing me around or what? Again a major downpour awakens me in the night, right I left my bathing suit hanging on the mirror to "dry". Time to do laundry.
I managed to find a campground and bonus, they had hotpools so had a good soak before I lay my weary (full tummied ) body down for a good nights sleep. What is it with the rain? Folowing me around or what? Again a major downpour awakens me in the night, right I left my bathing suit hanging on the mirror to "dry". Time to do laundry.
Thursday 21 January 2010
Bridal Veil Falls to Hamilton and south to Rotorua
I chose not to spend the night at Solscape, a lovely spot high up on the cliff overlooking Ngaruni Beach. It has composting toilets and solar showers and plenty of surfers mostly under 30, places like that make me feel old, really old. Besides the light was fantastic for taking pictures so I headed up to the falls. Great walk to the cliff top then stairs down below and of course back up again. I kept stopping as the light got more and more mellow. Of course when that happens, eventually it gets dark! Driving into an unknown city with little chance of camp grounds that I could find, I parked on a dead end street, beside a park, drank a beer and fell asleep. My back unfortunately is still waking me up. Plus the ever present assumption that someone might come along to shift me gave me a rather interrupted sleep.
The lady having a smoke outside said g'morning in response to mine and I left. Parked beside the Hamilton Rowing Club and watched the early morning teams prep and push off down river. A rather pleasant place to prepare myself for the day.
Where did I go? The library! after purchasing a pair of Chacos for NZ$49. They have been bought out by Merril so all the old stock is reduced to clear. Hamilton has charm and I felt compelled to move on.
I've been thinking... (this is news?) realizing how much I have been driven by my judgments of how I should be doing this trip. My journey at the moment involves a lot of movement. I want to cover as much territory as possible and I want to see it. My experience of NZ has been determined a lot by the geography and I want to get a sense of the people. Each time I spend more than 2 hours in one spot I get some of that. I will be spending 20 days with the Permaculture course and 15 other folks, staying with contacts in Wellington, Christchurch, Dunedin, Auckland and maybe other places. What am I trying to say? I dunno! People are different here, lots of tourists and retailers is who I mostly bump into so the real NZ is always going to be just out of reach I suppose. I accept that.
Stopping in Tirau where corrugated iron is king. The Info centre is a giant dog, next door the giant sheep sells.. can you guess? Marino clothing and plenty of sheep souvenirs, among all the other souvenirs. I picked up some shorts, this is the default uniform of NZ men, I seldom see men wearing long pants.
Onward past a rock monolith with the usual religious message spray painted on the side I didn't see, how nice! Into Rotorua, open the door to go outside and the smell is overpowering. I stopped at the Thermal Park and wandered around looking at boiling mud plopping skyward and oily surfaced water looking rather unattractive steaming away. Some young "folks" chucked a bottle into it to see what might transpire..., it sank.
The lady having a smoke outside said g'morning in response to mine and I left. Parked beside the Hamilton Rowing Club and watched the early morning teams prep and push off down river. A rather pleasant place to prepare myself for the day.
Where did I go? The library! after purchasing a pair of Chacos for NZ$49. They have been bought out by Merril so all the old stock is reduced to clear. Hamilton has charm and I felt compelled to move on.
I've been thinking... (this is news?) realizing how much I have been driven by my judgments of how I should be doing this trip. My journey at the moment involves a lot of movement. I want to cover as much territory as possible and I want to see it. My experience of NZ has been determined a lot by the geography and I want to get a sense of the people. Each time I spend more than 2 hours in one spot I get some of that. I will be spending 20 days with the Permaculture course and 15 other folks, staying with contacts in Wellington, Christchurch, Dunedin, Auckland and maybe other places. What am I trying to say? I dunno! People are different here, lots of tourists and retailers is who I mostly bump into so the real NZ is always going to be just out of reach I suppose. I accept that.
Stopping in Tirau where corrugated iron is king. The Info centre is a giant dog, next door the giant sheep sells.. can you guess? Marino clothing and plenty of sheep souvenirs, among all the other souvenirs. I picked up some shorts, this is the default uniform of NZ men, I seldom see men wearing long pants.
Onward past a rock monolith with the usual religious message spray painted on the side I didn't see, how nice! Into Rotorua, open the door to go outside and the smell is overpowering. I stopped at the Thermal Park and wandered around looking at boiling mud plopping skyward and oily surfaced water looking rather unattractive steaming away. Some young "folks" chucked a bottle into it to see what might transpire..., it sank.
Tuesday 19 January 2010
Auckland to Raglan
Busy day it was, I spent another night with Liz and Fraser showed them slides till our eyes were shutting. Did I say I have taking a lot of pictures yet? OK I have now. The digital tech is awesome.
I finally have a stove! Fraser scoped it out for me and came up with a simple one burner and fuel for under $40NZ.
Drove up to One Tree Hill (no tree cause due to an intertribal dispute someone cut it down and until it is resolved all efforts to replant will be thwarted)(!)Overcast but the view is still impressive 360'. Some amazing trees in this park, huge buttresses and long leaning limbs suspended over the lawn which by the way has sheep pastured on it. The craters with the stone messages are fun, especially when they make some sense. Then a visit to the museum, like most, a couple hours is just scratching the surface. I am sure I could spend a week looking at all the different exhibits. Then there is the bookstore...Mostly spent the time looking at Maori stuff, very impressive, lots of similarities to our westcoast art forms.
This city has so much waterfront it is... well it is and a lot of it is sandy beach. Stop for lunch at Fish Pot Cafe on Tamaki Drive on St. Heliers Bay and sit watching people stroll by, swimming,(some walking, waay out) gulls who are watching us for handouts and occasional young immigrants interviewing us to practice their inglis. Don't get me started on the accent, I have listened to conversations where I did not understand a single word. Yikes! Mostly folks speak fairly clearly and if I think about it briefly , I get it.
Realizing the time has passed we race back to Albany get the address and I pack up my stuff. Not how I want to be leaving this wonderful hospitable couple. Anyway the driving, back almost where we were (we drove past it earlier!)on the "motorway"jeez I almost took out my front headlight on a rubber barrier when I realized I did NOT want to exit and cut someone off who was later "happy" to give me the universal sign of displeasure. The number of times I have gotten lost driving soars...
Brian gives me a deep massage, rolfing the crap out of my fascia around the rib cage yow! apparently I am not breathing deeply enough. We go out for Thai food and then meet with the Monday night I-group. After, Martin takes me to a bar where we see a Sottish band blast out angst and joy (I assume) in typical rock and roll decibility. After a couple of beer and some people watching (a young crowd to be sure) we head out to his place where I crash. Nice digs. He lives a block from the beach, has a run and a swim before he's off to work. I call Mom (it is her B'day) and then get utterly lost trying to find the motorway. Some well meaning folks give me the most convoluted directions possible and eventually I make it to a supermarket, buy groceries and more directions. To be honest, one fellow after overhearing the directions came up to me and directed me in a more direct way to my destination.
Then southbound on the "Motorway" hurtling along with the bell ringing (cause I'm going over 110)barely keeping up to the transports.
When I had enough, I pulled off to look at some carved bone and jade(some from BC!) got directions and headed west at Rangiriri, through Glen Murray, Naike, Ohaurito turning right after driving in circles for awhile looking for the beach. Not there yet! another 35km later I am parked eating last nights leftovers overlooking the Waitetuna River and lotsa beach. Quick visit to the library to catch up and post pictures then down the road to the beach, and out to the ocean beaches where the best surfing in NZ apparently is. Yes I know, don't end a sentence with an article.
The whole surfing scene is fairly intense, these folks are serious surfers, plenty of babes in bikinis and guys with that faraway look in there washed out eyes. Plus bleached hair, burnt faces and sunscreen aplenty.
I finally have a stove! Fraser scoped it out for me and came up with a simple one burner and fuel for under $40NZ.
Drove up to One Tree Hill (no tree cause due to an intertribal dispute someone cut it down and until it is resolved all efforts to replant will be thwarted)(!)Overcast but the view is still impressive 360'. Some amazing trees in this park, huge buttresses and long leaning limbs suspended over the lawn which by the way has sheep pastured on it. The craters with the stone messages are fun, especially when they make some sense. Then a visit to the museum, like most, a couple hours is just scratching the surface. I am sure I could spend a week looking at all the different exhibits. Then there is the bookstore...Mostly spent the time looking at Maori stuff, very impressive, lots of similarities to our westcoast art forms.
This city has so much waterfront it is... well it is and a lot of it is sandy beach. Stop for lunch at Fish Pot Cafe on Tamaki Drive on St. Heliers Bay and sit watching people stroll by, swimming,(some walking, waay out) gulls who are watching us for handouts and occasional young immigrants interviewing us to practice their inglis. Don't get me started on the accent, I have listened to conversations where I did not understand a single word. Yikes! Mostly folks speak fairly clearly and if I think about it briefly , I get it.
Realizing the time has passed we race back to Albany get the address and I pack up my stuff. Not how I want to be leaving this wonderful hospitable couple. Anyway the driving, back almost where we were (we drove past it earlier!)on the "motorway"jeez I almost took out my front headlight on a rubber barrier when I realized I did NOT want to exit and cut someone off who was later "happy" to give me the universal sign of displeasure. The number of times I have gotten lost driving soars...
Brian gives me a deep massage, rolfing the crap out of my fascia around the rib cage yow! apparently I am not breathing deeply enough. We go out for Thai food and then meet with the Monday night I-group. After, Martin takes me to a bar where we see a Sottish band blast out angst and joy (I assume) in typical rock and roll decibility. After a couple of beer and some people watching (a young crowd to be sure) we head out to his place where I crash. Nice digs. He lives a block from the beach, has a run and a swim before he's off to work. I call Mom (it is her B'day) and then get utterly lost trying to find the motorway. Some well meaning folks give me the most convoluted directions possible and eventually I make it to a supermarket, buy groceries and more directions. To be honest, one fellow after overhearing the directions came up to me and directed me in a more direct way to my destination.
Then southbound on the "Motorway" hurtling along with the bell ringing (cause I'm going over 110)barely keeping up to the transports.
When I had enough, I pulled off to look at some carved bone and jade(some from BC!) got directions and headed west at Rangiriri, through Glen Murray, Naike, Ohaurito turning right after driving in circles for awhile looking for the beach. Not there yet! another 35km later I am parked eating last nights leftovers overlooking the Waitetuna River and lotsa beach. Quick visit to the library to catch up and post pictures then down the road to the beach, and out to the ocean beaches where the best surfing in NZ apparently is. Yes I know, don't end a sentence with an article.
The whole surfing scene is fairly intense, these folks are serious surfers, plenty of babes in bikinis and guys with that faraway look in there washed out eyes. Plus bleached hair, burnt faces and sunscreen aplenty.
Saturday 16 January 2010
Days15-17 Heart Politics, not a travelogue!
This event is all about the politics of social action and how with heart we, the people, can affect change and transformation. Created out of a desire for social justice and employment these activists took off from a Maori model maintaining the momentum for 20 years. This years summer gathering almost didn't happen,(on the website, it was 'canceled') traditionally a 5 day event, some of the community refused to let it pass. It is all about being present to each other, deep listening where all "pay attention to the unfolding" working toward a "common good" this community is "talking across diversity". We are encouraged to bring forward our concerns, our stories and passions with the intention of seeing the bigger picture, the biggest impact we are having the influence we bring forward through the fabric of our/their culture/community/society. Meeting twice a year, the winter gathering has traditionally been a retreat for the previous participants, smaller and more focused on personal strengthening. There seems to be a shift towards using that time to address more juicy, involving issues.
I took a lot (for me) of notes about the structure of the event, how it unfolds and what it looks like on the surface. Certainly the uniqueness of New Zealand contributes greatly in my judgment, to how successful this is: 700 people on their database.
I was encouraged and inspired by these folks and their efforts, I wonder/ed how it might look in other countries (Australia and California have Heart Politics) and how I can bring this conciousness to bear fruit in my community.
My experience of being there, invited by someone in Canada, knowing really nothing about it, was extremely positive. Warm and friendly people, with a huge concern for the welfare of their country, nation and the world itself. The issues discussed were always in the final analysis about the bigger picture, what is the affect on the greater community? And of course the micro view , the personal was addressed as well with the familiar tools of expression and witnessing. Somewhat like Dare'for larger community.
We sang/chanted frequently, I offer this one (most were in Maori!)to finish my 'report'
"Tall trees, warm fires,
Strong winds, deep waters,
I feel you in my body,
I feel you in my soul."
"Tall trees, warm fires,
Strong winds, deep waters,
I feel you in my body,
I feel you in my soul."
I took a lot (for me) of notes about the structure of the event, how it unfolds and what it looks like on the surface. Certainly the uniqueness of New Zealand contributes greatly in my judgment, to how successful this is: 700 people on their database.
I was encouraged and inspired by these folks and their efforts, I wonder/ed how it might look in other countries (Australia and California have Heart Politics) and how I can bring this conciousness to bear fruit in my community.
My experience of being there, invited by someone in Canada, knowing really nothing about it, was extremely positive. Warm and friendly people, with a huge concern for the welfare of their country, nation and the world itself. The issues discussed were always in the final analysis about the bigger picture, what is the affect on the greater community? And of course the micro view , the personal was addressed as well with the familiar tools of expression and witnessing. Somewhat like Dare'for larger community.
We sang/chanted frequently, I offer this one (most were in Maori!)to finish my 'report'
"Tall trees, warm fires,
Strong winds, deep waters,
I feel you in my body,
I feel you in my soul."
"Tall trees, warm fires,
Strong winds, deep waters,
I feel you in my body,
I feel you in my soul."
Thursday 14 January 2010
Day 15
A brief lull here while I prepare for the Heart Politic retreat. Unlikely to be taking pictures, well maybe. There are at least 30 people attending so lots of conversations possible about... well I am not exactly sure. Community creation?
Yesterday I drove south and west missing the main turnoff and proceeded along a road replete with sheep farms (sheep on the road), cattle farms and clearcuts along the east face of a mountainside. The one lane bridge continues to surprise me as I drive along these lonely roads. The advantage of avoiding the highway is that I can slow down to look at stuff without pissing off the folks behind me. I did trust that I was heading in the right direction, sometimes it seems to much trouble to stop, change glasses and look at the map. Eventually I did when arriving at a fork where I discovered that my next destination would be Goat Island Marine Reserve(Park) To get there I had to climb a very narrow (one lane in places) gravel road up and up. Pavement at the top and a great view of the Whangateau Harbour and sandy beach stretching south. Then down a very windy, steep road to the reserve where there were loads of people all getting into the water in wetsuits, with snorkels etc to view the incredible underwater landscape. Some good signage describing what was there and yes plenty of folks soaking up sunshine in appropriate attire. Seeing many folks with tattoos of all descriptions, including facial. The van started, I say a little prayer (another song title?) everytime it does.And I proceeded through Leigh, Whangateau and on to Warkworth where major construction on the highway had me miss my turn. I continued on the highway for awhile then turned back and had a terrible lunch at the Honey Farm. I bought some honey (how could I resist avocado honey?) and mead after trying 4 different types, mostly sweet (I don't feel so bad now!). Eventually locating the road I wanted. I drove over the sweetest little one lane bridge imaginable, of course no where to stop and I wasn't sure yet I was on the correct road. It was curved , no handrail about 18 inches off the streambed which also curved with large flat rocks spaced strategically down in a treelined hollow. Beautiful. Continuing south through seemingly endless sheep and cattle ranches past places called Woodcocks, Aturoa and Komokoriki. I stopped briefly in Helensville, to read the map. My destination, Muriwai beach where treacherous tides and big surf roll across black sand. Not exactly black like in Crofton it is also home to a large Gannet colony. Along the road I saw a huge white bird fly into the gum trees, a Cockatoo? likely. Again lots of people although parking was easier. I wandered around below the Gannet colony only later realizing how close I came to having white hair. Bought some organic veggies at a roadside stand and proceeded forward into rush hour or at least more traffic than I care to be part of. I was heading for the East coast again, a small town north of Albany, Torbay. Once again I felt lost as I kept up with the stream, flying by the seat of my pants and hurried glances at a better map but one without the names that were coming up on the signs. The sun being in the north,I am sure, is confusing my inner compass. My instincts and memory eventually got me here, where once again I did the telephone game. Dennis has kindly given me another phone which I hope will work better.
Yesterday I drove south and west missing the main turnoff and proceeded along a road replete with sheep farms (sheep on the road), cattle farms and clearcuts along the east face of a mountainside. The one lane bridge continues to surprise me as I drive along these lonely roads. The advantage of avoiding the highway is that I can slow down to look at stuff without pissing off the folks behind me. I did trust that I was heading in the right direction, sometimes it seems to much trouble to stop, change glasses and look at the map. Eventually I did when arriving at a fork where I discovered that my next destination would be Goat Island Marine Reserve(Park) To get there I had to climb a very narrow (one lane in places) gravel road up and up. Pavement at the top and a great view of the Whangateau Harbour and sandy beach stretching south. Then down a very windy, steep road to the reserve where there were loads of people all getting into the water in wetsuits, with snorkels etc to view the incredible underwater landscape. Some good signage describing what was there and yes plenty of folks soaking up sunshine in appropriate attire. Seeing many folks with tattoos of all descriptions, including facial. The van started, I say a little prayer (another song title?) everytime it does.And I proceeded through Leigh, Whangateau and on to Warkworth where major construction on the highway had me miss my turn. I continued on the highway for awhile then turned back and had a terrible lunch at the Honey Farm. I bought some honey (how could I resist avocado honey?) and mead after trying 4 different types, mostly sweet (I don't feel so bad now!). Eventually locating the road I wanted. I drove over the sweetest little one lane bridge imaginable, of course no where to stop and I wasn't sure yet I was on the correct road. It was curved , no handrail about 18 inches off the streambed which also curved with large flat rocks spaced strategically down in a treelined hollow. Beautiful. Continuing south through seemingly endless sheep and cattle ranches past places called Woodcocks, Aturoa and Komokoriki. I stopped briefly in Helensville, to read the map. My destination, Muriwai beach where treacherous tides and big surf roll across black sand. Not exactly black like in Crofton it is also home to a large Gannet colony. Along the road I saw a huge white bird fly into the gum trees, a Cockatoo? likely. Again lots of people although parking was easier. I wandered around below the Gannet colony only later realizing how close I came to having white hair. Bought some organic veggies at a roadside stand and proceeded forward into rush hour or at least more traffic than I care to be part of. I was heading for the East coast again, a small town north of Albany, Torbay. Once again I felt lost as I kept up with the stream, flying by the seat of my pants and hurried glances at a better map but one without the names that were coming up on the signs. The sun being in the north,I am sure, is confusing my inner compass. My instincts and memory eventually got me here, where once again I did the telephone game. Dennis has kindly given me another phone which I hope will work better.
Tuesday 12 January 2010
Is it day 13 or not?
I am confused, I arrived on January 1 so today being the 13th should be day 13. I am feeling quite ungrounded. However that appears, the journey continues. I am having a respite from travelling at the moment, visiting some friends of my folks Jean and Rudy DeVries just south of Mangawhai Village. Oh and so you get into the experience of this adventure, wh is pronounced f. Got that? The accent of people can be faint or thick and combined with the Maori names for places sometimes it seems impossible (for me) to understand where or what.
After checking out the Hundertwasser toilets yesterday which by the way are quite entertaining, just a regular toilet with lotsa embellishment. Living roof and a tree growing up through it. With a little shove the van restarted and I drove on to the Kawiti caves. Run by a Maori family , they have a Marea onsite and a cattle farm. The limestone cave was discovered 300 years ago by ancestors of these folks when they smelled smoke, investigated and found a runaway woman living inside. The cave itself is very entrancing with large stalactites and stalagmites galore. A wooden walkway suspended above the stream wends its way through and out the back where a trail leads over the hill and back down through limestone boulders and native bush. No photos inside unfortunately. The glow worms are very cool shining off the ceiling, it is their excrement on tubes hanging down that glows as bait for the mosquitoes and flies they eat.
Onto Whangarei and the falls, a nice walk along the stream and some time to think. Reflection happens when I am driving and stuff comes up I think I want to say, then when I sit to write it is just the travelogue that appears. Thinking about the what if... I had come 20 years ago, I realize that was in the middle of being Dad, there is no way I would have/could have walked away from my children or could afford to bring them here! I needed to say that. Those were wonderful times in spite of all my failings I wouldn't trade that time for anything. Wow i am teary eyed, I miss my children, and love them deeply, I don't know if you all know how important you are to me Matthew, Isaac, Monica, Carla and James. Thank you Annie for your trust and faith in my parenting, I learned so much.
Anti climax time eh? I decided I wanted to take a secondary road south and then head towards Brynderwyn. As I was driving and had no co-pilot to read the map I ended up in Maungatapere, where I saw some amazing stone fencing. Then I tried again after a quick look at the map and this time found myself in Maungakaramea... the folks there had little sympathy since the NZ way is to drive as fast as possible in the most direct way to get anywhere. Back to the #1 I went and eventually (did I tell you my phone is on the fritz? 6 calls later I was on a payphone) arrived here. Now I am off to see the bird sanctuary and dunes, do some walkabout.
After checking out the Hundertwasser toilets yesterday which by the way are quite entertaining, just a regular toilet with lotsa embellishment. Living roof and a tree growing up through it. With a little shove the van restarted and I drove on to the Kawiti caves. Run by a Maori family , they have a Marea onsite and a cattle farm. The limestone cave was discovered 300 years ago by ancestors of these folks when they smelled smoke, investigated and found a runaway woman living inside. The cave itself is very entrancing with large stalactites and stalagmites galore. A wooden walkway suspended above the stream wends its way through and out the back where a trail leads over the hill and back down through limestone boulders and native bush. No photos inside unfortunately. The glow worms are very cool shining off the ceiling, it is their excrement on tubes hanging down that glows as bait for the mosquitoes and flies they eat.
Onto Whangarei and the falls, a nice walk along the stream and some time to think. Reflection happens when I am driving and stuff comes up I think I want to say, then when I sit to write it is just the travelogue that appears. Thinking about the what if... I had come 20 years ago, I realize that was in the middle of being Dad, there is no way I would have/could have walked away from my children or could afford to bring them here! I needed to say that. Those were wonderful times in spite of all my failings I wouldn't trade that time for anything. Wow i am teary eyed, I miss my children, and love them deeply, I don't know if you all know how important you are to me Matthew, Isaac, Monica, Carla and James. Thank you Annie for your trust and faith in my parenting, I learned so much.
Anti climax time eh? I decided I wanted to take a secondary road south and then head towards Brynderwyn. As I was driving and had no co-pilot to read the map I ended up in Maungatapere, where I saw some amazing stone fencing. Then I tried again after a quick look at the map and this time found myself in Maungakaramea... the folks there had little sympathy since the NZ way is to drive as fast as possible in the most direct way to get anywhere. Back to the #1 I went and eventually (did I tell you my phone is on the fritz? 6 calls later I was on a payphone) arrived here. Now I am off to see the bird sanctuary and dunes, do some walkabout.
Monday 11 January 2010
Day 12
How frustrating! I spent a good hour late last night, not online writing my thoughts and experiences bringing it all up to date. Then this morning when I showed up here at the library in Kawakawa, I went online..poof all gone. If there is one thing I thought I had learned it was Assume nothing! Especially with this medium. Anyway there I was in the library Dagraville skyping with Elke (how nice it is to connect) trying hard not to disturb the woman behind me. When she got up to go I mentioned it and we went into a 20 min conversation. She was interested to know what I thought about her country, a student attending University in Hamilton, home for the holidays (isn't that a movie?). I described some experiences then showed her pictures... She recognized the spot I spent the night, her partners family are the folks in the corrugated iron cabins above the beach, oh right I hadn't got there yet. So I drive down this road along a river and come to the end. sorta. Someone in a bigger camper parked, not too friendly he was and beyond I can see an atv, 4wd and a collection of corrugated iron "buildings" definitely a camp of sorts, these folks have been coming here for years. Turns out someone actually lives there! One of my new acquaintance's relatives. Across the river another building with a flag on a pole, that's the picture she recognized. Anyway there was another road going up onto the hill behind, the gate was open and I thought why not? Drove past a fenced area with a picnic table, along a track with gates looking very sheep or cattle country. Around another corner and voila out onto a beautiful field overlooking the western vista, surf pounding below and two fishermen. At the far edge of the field was a van, a small trailer, door wide open and piles of stuff strewn around; mattresses, surf boards, a guitar, bags of unknowns, camping gear and no one to be seen. I wandered down the cliff stepping over the electric fence and slowly approached the first fisherman. he didn't appear glad to see me. He indicated his understanding was the land was private and I might get locked in. At that point his rod fell over and he began hauling in a fish whose name I didn't quite catch, his partner also brought one in and they allowed I might have brought them good luck. Back to fishing. I returned to the van, where now a woman and child had appeared. She said they were leaving and it wouldn't be appropriate for me to be there if they were not. Parked down below,went for an explore walking along the river to the mouth and the beach. Then back to eat the rest of my dinner and have a beer. Another van arrives, they say hello (!) and explore briefly returning to tell me they are parking up above, I join them due to some understanding of Neville's that the trust or something like that allows us to be there. As darkness falls, Ferg shows up and after some convincing by Neville backs off from booting us out since he is leaving in the morning and we will too. I awake to the sound of gentle rain in the night, followed closely by a lashing downpour, gale force winds and the van rocking violently. Luckily I parked below the crest of the hill. Finally quit around 6, so I did my breakfast, some writing and prepared to leave. The starter wheezes again and again bringing Neville out to investigate from his tiny tent with his Swiss friend Andrea on his heels. Eventually with their help rocking back and forth it catches and I AM OUTA THERE. Next stop the really big Kauri trees, the biggest and the widest. They call one of them Father of the Forest but to me they were both big mother trees, huge. Taking a picture just doesn't come close to portraying how massive they are. Went for a nice walk through the woods to see them and took lots of pictures. Onward, stopping to look at the carved bowls of 4500 year old Kauri, very nice, and dear. Some gum there as well, but nothing called my name.
Dagraville, the river is brown, turbid and unappealing. The town itself seems friendly, old buildings and a sense of heritage, cashing in on the tourists as much as is possible. I spent $20 doing the internet thing before figuring out I could do the library for free... wandered around in between attempting to get grounded and determine what my next step might be. Had a moment of upset when the phone mic wouldn't work, the payphone wouldn't accept coins or my credit card. I bought some time and made the call. Will visit Jean DeVries near Wellsford tonight. I was hungry so went for Chinese food... it was the worst I have ever experienced, it tasted UNchinese, tough and bland, I felt sorry for these folks, trying so hard. Weird it was.
Decided to work myself towards Kawakawa to see the toilets. Drove north from Tangowahine through some beautiful country following a river and turning east I came upon the mineral springs I had been reading about in my Lonely Planet Guidebook. I had not been able to locate them on the map, but here I was. $13 to visit the pools and spend the night, what a deal.
Dagraville, the river is brown, turbid and unappealing. The town itself seems friendly, old buildings and a sense of heritage, cashing in on the tourists as much as is possible. I spent $20 doing the internet thing before figuring out I could do the library for free... wandered around in between attempting to get grounded and determine what my next step might be. Had a moment of upset when the phone mic wouldn't work, the payphone wouldn't accept coins or my credit card. I bought some time and made the call. Will visit Jean DeVries near Wellsford tonight. I was hungry so went for Chinese food... it was the worst I have ever experienced, it tasted UNchinese, tough and bland, I felt sorry for these folks, trying so hard. Weird it was.
Decided to work myself towards Kawakawa to see the toilets. Drove north from Tangowahine through some beautiful country following a river and turning east I came upon the mineral springs I had been reading about in my Lonely Planet Guidebook. I had not been able to locate them on the map, but here I was. $13 to visit the pools and spend the night, what a deal.
Day 11 already
The internet has been scarce and pricey lately so I am limiting my writing to public libraries! What a gift they are, I spent $20 uploading photos and checking mail earlier, had some food, messed with my inconsistent starter and located the library. Where have I been? On some amazing beaches let me tell you. The drive up the peninsula was easy, I am getting more comfortable with this RH driving although when the speedometer started dinging I kinda wondered "what next?" Apparently the van does not like to exceed 110 km an hour. Those one lane bridges are cute with the arrows on a sign indicating who has the right of way. The Gum diggers and the Giant Kauri displays did not call me, I chose instead to investigate Rarawa Beach, incredible white sand, I had to go back for my sunglasses. And went for my first swim, water refreshing not warm and not cold either. Drive on! Stopping to take pictures of the worlds purest silica sand dunes and ever onward toward the site of my pilgrimage Cape Reinga. And what an experience arriving there! I was unprepared for how I felt, awed and humbled by the majesty of ocean and land coming together. Far out I could see surf breaking as if the land, a reef perhaps, reaches miles out toward the north. Surf, beaches, headlands and way off in the distance the Three Kings. I walked around for a while and let go an offering that Marilyn had entrusted with me. Took way too many pictures and exposed my flesh to the sun, I thought I had it covered with sunscreen... I visited Taputaputa Bay in concert with 3 bus loads of folks. That could have been me, I am so glad I have the van. Walked around the corner back towards Cape Reinga but was stopped by the sea and an impassable headland. However it is possible to walk there, a trail connects. Actually this place NZ is covered with great "tracks" and plenty of "reserves"aka park. The historical signifigance of all these places is well documented adding a wonderful perspective to my adventure. Hmm, somehow that seems grammatically challenged. Anyway I chose to spend the night at Spirits Bay, parked among the other tourists all at a respectable distance. A fellow waves to me, first friendly greeting since Albany. Phil is from the UK living in Wellington and loving the place. He and Andrea found a wee hedgehog in the surf the day before and were feeding it shells full of milk. Walked the beach, collected a shell or two and marvelled at this pristine length of delicious sand stretching off to the east with nary a soul to be seen. Big surf, I tried a little body surfing and was speedily deposited on the beach! What a rush! Later as the sun set the young surfers emerged wandering way down the beach where apparently the best waves were. A few mosquitoes accompanied me to bed after a non cooked dinner. I neglected to get myself a stove, total fire ban here due to lack of rain. Eating lots of avocadoes.
Next morning the rowdies in the next site departed and I managed to get in another swim before I too left. After getting my hotwater (lemon,cayenne and ginger) I turned west to Hukatere driving through the Aupouri forest mostly Pine and some Gum (Eucalyptus) The ground covered in what looks like deep duff from the pine needles. 90 mile beach had people coming and going, some even stuck in the sand, all part of their adventure. Normally I would be tempting fate as well but it was somewhat foggy and besides what is there to do there? Drive? Fish? and surf I guess. Those waves looked a little bit challenging to me. How about 5 avacadoes for $2? YES!
Off to the museum in Kaitaia, learned about gum digging, local surfers from the 70's and Captain Cook. Lunch was a massive burger, they put soo much stuff in their burgers! Then I drove on a road that had me thinking of Doug and Connie, folks you gotta get down here and drive the Mangamuka Gorge wow, I took some pictures whilst driving normally a no no, little traffic so I went slow. Hairpins that went beyond belief around and around, down and down. The up side was probably just as winding but I was trying to stay on the road. Then up to the Kauri sanctuary 15k's of gravel and not a soul to be seen. The 6th largest Kauri in New Zealand (how about the planet folks). I realized the guide book was speaking about ANOTHER Kauri reserve so did a backtrack and headed across the ferry at Rangiora to Rawene ( now, is that pronounced raw weenie?) wandered the town, took about 15 minutes, bought mussels and fries takeaway. Sat and ate and messed with the phone, took pictures of the Dunes across Hokianga harbour at North head. I spotted a likely camping spot at Waimaku Beach and did spend the night there. The library is closing! I gotta go ! More to follow.
Next morning the rowdies in the next site departed and I managed to get in another swim before I too left. After getting my hotwater (lemon,cayenne and ginger) I turned west to Hukatere driving through the Aupouri forest mostly Pine and some Gum (Eucalyptus) The ground covered in what looks like deep duff from the pine needles. 90 mile beach had people coming and going, some even stuck in the sand, all part of their adventure. Normally I would be tempting fate as well but it was somewhat foggy and besides what is there to do there? Drive? Fish? and surf I guess. Those waves looked a little bit challenging to me. How about 5 avacadoes for $2? YES!
Off to the museum in Kaitaia, learned about gum digging, local surfers from the 70's and Captain Cook. Lunch was a massive burger, they put soo much stuff in their burgers! Then I drove on a road that had me thinking of Doug and Connie, folks you gotta get down here and drive the Mangamuka Gorge wow, I took some pictures whilst driving normally a no no, little traffic so I went slow. Hairpins that went beyond belief around and around, down and down. The up side was probably just as winding but I was trying to stay on the road. Then up to the Kauri sanctuary 15k's of gravel and not a soul to be seen. The 6th largest Kauri in New Zealand (how about the planet folks). I realized the guide book was speaking about ANOTHER Kauri reserve so did a backtrack and headed across the ferry at Rangiora to Rawene ( now, is that pronounced raw weenie?) wandered the town, took about 15 minutes, bought mussels and fries takeaway. Sat and ate and messed with the phone, took pictures of the Dunes across Hokianga harbour at North head. I spotted a likely camping spot at Waimaku Beach and did spend the night there. The library is closing! I gotta go ! More to follow.
Friday 8 January 2010
Day7 rolls into 8
Driving, there is something disconcerting about realizing I am on the wrong side of the road as someone approaches me. Augh! Luckily I am choosing to drive narrow windy roads without much traffic. The views are spectacular, I am inclined to stop frequently so not making much progress. Went for a delightful swim this morning, then continued north into the Bay of Islands,past Frenchman's Swamp and on to Russel where I posted a letter. Took a short ferry ride to Opua then got fuel in Paihia. Then visited the Waitangi treaty grounds. Maori canoes were impressive, one holds 160 , 80 paddlers. I visited the building honouring all the Maori signatories ( I think) amazing carvings inside. I was so amazed I didn't take any pictures... Oh well. Onto another gravel road to Haruru falls and then back onto highway to Puketona. Went into Kerikeri and an organic grower there pointed me to another vista filled drive, better than the last, there just are not enough superlatives folks. OMG this place is stunning! However the number of no camping signs is disappointing, I am currently contemplating a side trip up into Doubtless Bay and another night in a campground. Stuff keeps coming up for me, I am alone by choice and examining deeply the choices I made by coming here. 20 years ago I am sure I would have stayed and rode the wave. Things have changed apparently from the limited challenging struggles to prosperity and easy access to just about everything. I am having trouble defining what it is I am trying to describe, Stephen described it as an insularity and ability to deal with whatever comes along. Me I am on the outside looking in. I am a social being and this forced solitude surrounded by folks who barely see me is challenging. In a good way. My ego could use some humility eh? Yes and this is merely the first week ending here folks, who can say where I will be in a month?
Bless you all,
I have huge gratitude for the love and support I am feeling from my friends and family.
checkout the pictures at Picasa
Bless you all,
I have huge gratitude for the love and support I am feeling from my friends and family.
checkout the pictures at Picasa
Tuesday 5 January 2010
Hanging out in Albany
Whew! Driving on the right side is challenging. A friend of a friend who is now a friend. (yeah that is silly) Fraser and Liz are putting me up with splendid hospitality, driven me all over, showing the sights and helping negotiate the technicalities of vehicle registration, cell phone formatting (yes I have a number... don't call me yet!) and money exchange. The foliage and bird life continues to impress me, walkabout feels somewhat unreal, although a trip to the mall is always a good reality check. Summer time and folks are dressed for it.
Yesterday we took a trip up north to Puhoi, where a very established quaint and rustic pub serves beer outside on fairly gnarly picnic tables. Didn't get into the library , but it is functioning. There are beaches everywhere, this is the place, greater Auckland has many miles of sandy beach and none are crowded. Today the plan is to do a little more driving get some more supplies and then go kayaking on the high tide. Tomorrow I will head north on my own.
Yesterday we took a trip up north to Puhoi, where a very established quaint and rustic pub serves beer outside on fairly gnarly picnic tables. Didn't get into the library , but it is functioning. There are beaches everywhere, this is the place, greater Auckland has many miles of sandy beach and none are crowded. Today the plan is to do a little more driving get some more supplies and then go kayaking on the high tide. Tomorrow I will head north on my own.
Sunday 3 January 2010
day 3
Clear skies last night and then the waning full moon. Great to hear from folks via email and my "landlord"on his phone. I spent too much time arranging things so folks could see my pictures, still working out how to let everyone know about the blog. Steep learning curve.
Woke early and spoke with Elke via Skype very cool.
Walked down past the beach and bridge, around to the camping part of the park and followed the track up to a waterfall,lotsa puddingstone boulders making caves, overhangs and some sweet little pools. Yes I climbed up,stripped down and jumped in, sorry no pictures of that. It was refreshing. Wandered down to ocean, looking at the trees attempting to identify as many as possible. It is so lush, verdant and buccolic.I wonder about the affect all this has on folks, I feel still overwhelmed by the majesty and novelty, flowers everywhere, hydrangeas growing wild and the incredible scents wafting past me, smells so sweet and then acrid and so many faintly familiar. Not to mention fallen fern fronds filling up the underbrush.
Woke early and spoke with Elke via Skype very cool.
Walked down past the beach and bridge, around to the camping part of the park and followed the track up to a waterfall,lotsa puddingstone boulders making caves, overhangs and some sweet little pools. Yes I climbed up,stripped down and jumped in, sorry no pictures of that. It was refreshing. Wandered down to ocean, looking at the trees attempting to identify as many as possible. It is so lush, verdant and buccolic.I wonder about the affect all this has on folks, I feel still overwhelmed by the majesty and novelty, flowers everywhere, hydrangeas growing wild and the incredible scents wafting past me, smells so sweet and then acrid and so many faintly familiar. Not to mention fallen fern fronds filling up the underbrush.
Saturday 2 January 2010
Day 2
I slept and hung out had some issues with the electics and the DSL (switches on the wall plugs!) Anyway I will post some pictures now that I am online again. Did I say I hadn't changed any money? Did I realize how far out this place is? I managed to buy some food, starvation diet for a few days, and Monday being a holiday means... no banks. This presents a challenge to obtaining my wheels as does getting back into town. I am trusting the universe to provide the perfect solution. In the meantime I will make contact with the van sellers.
The folks who were staying here on my arrival told me about a hike I might enjoy so after feeding cats I walked down the hill along the beach and up the road beside the river. saw some sheep! and a pleasant stream. What called to me was a hike (they call them tramps here) up the side of the hill/mountain I could see from the house. 2.5 hours and right away I had to scrub my shoes and spray some disinfectant to protect some ancient trees. It was pleasant hiking/tramping through the completely unfamiliar flora, although I did recognize a few houseplants. When I got to the giant tree and sat down I realized I aint 25 anymore and besides when was the last time I hiked uphill? There was an interesting sounding bird flitting around the canopy, which I intend to identify... later. A short extra trail to the top of Goat peak sufficed to satisfy my need to accomplish something, I took some vista pictures and descended rubbery legs and all expressing gratitude all the way. Walked the beach, had some fish and chips and returned to fall deep asleep. When I awoke I discovered the switch turning on the DSL and here I am back in the present moment!
The folks who were staying here on my arrival told me about a hike I might enjoy so after feeding cats I walked down the hill along the beach and up the road beside the river. saw some sheep! and a pleasant stream. What called to me was a hike (they call them tramps here) up the side of the hill/mountain I could see from the house. 2.5 hours and right away I had to scrub my shoes and spray some disinfectant to protect some ancient trees. It was pleasant hiking/tramping through the completely unfamiliar flora, although I did recognize a few houseplants. When I got to the giant tree and sat down I realized I aint 25 anymore and besides when was the last time I hiked uphill? There was an interesting sounding bird flitting around the canopy, which I intend to identify... later. A short extra trail to the top of Goat peak sufficed to satisfy my need to accomplish something, I took some vista pictures and descended rubbery legs and all expressing gratitude all the way. Walked the beach, had some fish and chips and returned to fall deep asleep. When I awoke I discovered the switch turning on the DSL and here I am back in the present moment!
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