Friday 5 March 2010

Hokitika and the Cesspool Gorge

I make my way to Hokitika, turn left toward the gorge and follow the signs. Quite a few doglegs, the roads are straight and appear to be following the property lines of some big farms all on the flat. Eventually I cross the river, milky from the glacier and find the parking. The toilets are not yet operational. No one is there.... however soon quite a number of vehicles arrive. The walkway is brand new taking us to the suspension bridge and then a rough track to waters edge. The water is boiling through here, one fellow seems to think he might go swimming! I don't stick around to see it, instead follow a stream a ways and avail myself of some healing herbs; yarrow, plantain and dock. Some realizations come home, my sinus infection, swimming in the sea, different climate, changes to my perspective. It all seems to come together, although I wonder what Louise Hay has to say....
Back into Hokitika and to river's mouth, looking for stones. The sea air brings on a powerful release, I work with it, making sure not to get blood all over my nice clean jacket. I breath deeply till one nostril is free then finally the other. Found some nice stones too, in spite of promising myself NOT to collect any. Like that's going to happen. Looking at the map I see Cesspool Gorge. That has a certain attractive ring to it. Getting there involves driving around Lake Kaniere, somehow I take the other road and drive around the opposite way I imagined. I really need a pilot to read the map. I stop a fellow walking and he tells me about some cowboy shootout rifle range where the gate might be locked. I decide to chance it and after driving a long time end up at the rifle range.In the dark. It looks deserted but out the fellow comes and directs me to the trail head. Unfortunately I'm not completely sure.
Morning comes, only one slight episode, raining and I figure this must be the gate. Slog along through the wet grass, then along the river bed. I see what appears to be jade, greenstone, boulders of it all sorts of greens and black. I find a few pieces I think might be the stuff then head into the bush up a a slight cliff looking for the trail. Right away I spot some amazing examples of Chicken of the Woods. Huge they are. I find some trail markers, bluepots nailed to trees. The trail is illusive, I have to zigzag through thick bush numerous times to find it. I continue on over a slip, broken trees, exposed rock on a cliff face, swamp, no sign of the trail etc till I come exhausted to a slippery climb seemingly straight up. I realize I am really not up to this, soaking wet, heart racing, legs like jelly. I head back and get lost, again and again zigzaging to find the trail markers. I attempt to go to the river and down but no... I am on an overhang 20 or 30 feet up, rocks below. I lay on my back a few times to get my breath back and my heart rate to slow, I am tripping, slipping and sliding bushes whacking me in the face. I find the trail and lose it, go too far and backtrack, climb up and down the edge of the cliff. When I finally arrive back at the van completely soaked and exhausted I look at the map..... The trail is on the other side of the river. But I didn't have a nose bleed!

Eves Valley to Greymouth

Eves Valley road is not so easy to find, lucky for me Hiroko reads the map and guides me there. At or near the roads end is a reserve, like a park where the land is protected. We see some cattle farms, orchards, horses and llamas, seems like a slow part of the world here. The other sight at the end of the road is a massive pile of wood from the clearcut logging they did on the hillside, feels just like home, complete with two fellows on their trailbikes.
We drive on stop for lunch at a river and look for greenstone.The road gets more interesting following big rivers past gorges and canyons. the one lane bridge/road is amazing, at one point, they chiseled (blasted?) the edge of the cliff so we can drive above the Buller River complete with overhang. Man did I wish for my camera to be operational. Some stars on the map indicate points of interest, maybe next time... we are in a hurry wanting to get to Hiroko's friends before dark. They run the Beaconstone Backpackers, south of Westport, surrounded by native bush the ocean far off to the west, a very pleasant place to land. My nose starts flowing when we step up to the door.
It continues to challenge me all night long. I won't go into the messy details.
In the morning clean up, express my gratitudes and head out. Again! Out of frustration and lack of understanding I let it bleed into the gravel at the side of the road, giving me some time to think. Manage to stop it and drive on past some majestic cliffs and awesome waves rolling in. Timed it well, full moon the night before and high tide as I drive along. The waves are perfect, single combers rolling onto sandy beaches and smashing skyward at the headlands. Pancake rocks would have been a great place to stop...I am more focused on getting to a drug store. I pick up a hitch hiker Dariousz from Poland . He has 9 days in NZ and this is day 3. Excited to hear I am heading so far south he is in for a surprise. The pharmacy suggests seeing a Dr. I make an appointment and then go to the library. Bleeding again! Make a mess in the bathroom so wisely head to Dr early. I must look like hell, they send me in and Anu the Dr. comes to see, a transplant from Oregon she is friendly, engaging and helpful, tells me how to pinch and how long. Her associate Michael stuffs something up my nose and insists I see the Hokitika Gorge. Some relief until after shopping both nostrils in the parking lot. I pinch and pinch and eventually still holding tight to my nose, Dariusz drives me to the hospital. His first driving on the right experience.
We wait. Pete the Dr comes and eventually sprays painkiller in my nostril, what a taste yuck! Then pushes and probes cannot see anything obvious. Suggests I might need to go to Christchurch to see the specialists and their instruments... I don't think so! They finally release me, drive into town and convince the fellow at the Noahs Ark backpackers to let us stay. Dariusz makes us an awesome dinner and I retire early. Spend the night swallowing, holding my nose and staying clean.
Morning comes, usual shower, shave and shi... nope didn't shave.We hang out at the library, unfortunately the bus is full so I offer to take Dariousz out of town to hitch. We share a meal together, the famous fish and chip takeaway and wish each other well. I revisit the hospital. Pete agrees it will likely settle down and so I head out as well.

Golden Bay to Motueka

I am so glad I've driven on gravel before. Many of the most appealing destinations are beyond the pavement. Anatori for example. I was so blissed out by the terrain I forgot to note the distance, and time being what it is, stopping frequently to drool or encourage Hiroko to snap a photo, meant as Margaret back at Tui warned me, cannot be determined. Lucky for me there were postcards at the Cape Farewell cafe. I bought one and plan to show you it personally when I return. Just ask the next time you see me!
We proceeded east back along the bay to Takaka where after loading up with groceries reconnected with Vincent, who along with Christina ,Caitlin and Mat were hanging out at Gee's yurt. We ate well, had some wine and told stories on each other.Then watched a video of the Fiordlands., As beautiful as it is I don't think I will be going there.
Then the three vehicles headed back close to town where we camped (almost) under a bridge.Getting cold and damp now as summer slides into fall. A heavy dew meant the tents were soaked in the morning. I managed to squeeze in a phone call to Elke then we all had breakfast together potluck, Hiroko takes good care of us all. Back to the library where I attempted to catch up on email. OMG it is like a constant stream of verbage really, and I need better filters. delete delete. Blog my thoughts. Who knew? I love this medium, The freedom to speak my somewhat articulate mind in such a random yet consistent manner is, as someone once said "brilliant!"
How hard is it to leave a place that seems like a kind of paradise? I had serious doubts I was ever going over that hill back to Moteuka. Roo kept bumping into more people she knew until finding us three enjoying Tiramasu and gluten free Hazelnut Torte a the Suiss bakery. Drove past Hang Dog the climbers spot across from an untried swimming hole..So many places to check out, Vincent, David and Hiroko had explored a local cave I missed somehow and...and...
Up we go, stop at the lookout, Golden Bay visible in the distance. Hiroko stands on the guardrail and takes the pictures for me.The batteries then die.
Over the top and down into Motueka, driving past our rendezvous spot since I missed noting it, we drove around till we spotted Ian, did some shopping and followed him home. His greenhouse is full of thriving plants, a cornucopia of potential permaculture plantings. We vist with Ian, Diana and of course the dogs! Have a wonderful dinner do email, load photos courtesy of David and by choosing satellite imaging on google brought the place back so well it almost felt like being there again.
In the morning we hear about Chile and the impending tsunami, hang laundry and plan our day. Off to the market in Motueka, my friend the hawk graces us with a landing in front of the van, then lift off close enough to make eye contact. We stop at Riverside Community for chai and a walkabout, David takes pictures and I whine to myself about dead batteries.
At the market I buy myself some rainbow tights, peaches, a Bratworst on a bun and organic blueberries ( the fellow is from Toronto originally). We all look at greenstone and the woman at one stand has some from Takaka, it is very dark. Her husband (originally from Colorado) carves stone they find all over. Gave up their jobs sold their stuff invested in tools and bought a place. Travel around collecting stone and then selling the carvings. More of her carvings keep coming out from behind the counter as she gets to know us. We all buy a piece, for each other..She also speaks about the giving and receiving, indicating the Maori themselves told her "the stone needs blessing". They suggested the source of the Riwaka, just up the road at the foot of Takaka hill. What a magical spot! The water comes rushing out of the hillside from a cave down through moss covered boulders into a clear green pool of incredibly inviting water. Once we had done our ritual in the stream among the boulders off came the clothes and into the pool. Yikes it was cold! It was here that I had my first nosebleed.
We walked back down the hill and stood together one last time, I truly love these folks and know we will meet again, soon. Wave to David and Roo. Hiroko and I drive south.
a note
I will be writing something about my time in the course, some digesting/composting to bring forth a truly fertile product. Something that seeds will grow in.